Bonnet Stuck!

**WabiSabi** · 20th January 2022, 06:55 AM

Originally Posted by Jeffoir

Hi,
If the cable pulling does not work,
I did read about a fix once. from memory it was recommended using an inflatable air wedge to lift one side of bonnet.
starting on left hand side, when looking at the bonnet from front. Then using plastic spatula or similar to press grille release. When you get one side up, you can move along to the right.
I hope this helps.
best wishes
jeff

I’m going to give this a go Jeff. I think I can wedge the bonnet open enough to get to the clips.

Thanks mate.

**drivesafe** · 20th January 2022, 07:52 AM

This might be of some help to locate the tabes.

eHeadlight-1.jpg

**eddy** · 20th January 2022, 01:50 PM

If no luck, maybe resort to pm member 'Hardware' on the Disco3 UK site DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Bonnet won’t open

**WabiSabi** · 20th January 2022, 02:47 PM

Finally got this sorted. Here’s what I did for anyone else who ends up in this situation.

I levered open the bonnet enough to stick some surfboard fins in to chock it open, starting on the right hand side. Then I used another surfboard fin to get in the gap and push each of the 4 grill clips down. I tried a tent peg first but it was too slippery. The fins worked well because they are flat and stiff.

Then I was able to pull the grill out, if you pull from the bottom holding either side of the grill it pops out and then just move it around a bit and pull it all the way clear.

Now you can see the two points where the bonnet locks in. One on the left and one on the right. On my right hand side one (facing the vehicle) there wasn’t a plastic clip protecting the lock so I was able to push a screw driver in there and it quickly unlatched.

The left hand side one had the plastic clip in the way (turned out to be an indicator that tells the car the bonnet is open), I gave it a knock with the screwdriver as I had read somewhere, and a part of the clip broke loose and that revealed the mechanism. I then used the screwdriver to unlock that side.

So now I had the bonnet unlocked and could open it with the lever in the middle.

Great!

I noticed the plastic clip on the left hand side is actually the indicator for the bonnet and so having knocked part of the clip off isn’t great but I cant see another way to do it. I’ll replace it, but for now it does sit back in it’s place and there’s no bonnet open warning lights.

So now I needed to find why the bonnet wasn’t unlocking. My lever inside the car was still moving back and forward so it didn’t feel like the cable had broken but I could see it wasn’t moving the cable at the locks.

Turns out there is a small cable junction box tucked behind the right hand side (facing vehicle) light. This is where the cable from the cabin connects to the cable in the first lock. It’s a plastic enclosure and both cable ends need to be seated in it with the plastic lid closed. You might need to pop this off it’s mount to get access, mine was cable tied in place so I just broke that off. The lock cable had popped out of this housing. I put it back in and aligned it the same as the one from the cabin. Made sure I clicked the lid back in place too so it can’t easily pop out again.

Cable tied it back in place and the whole thing was working again.

Now for the reason it happened.

I have added a second battery for traxide and this battery has quite high brass terminal pieces on it. I had noticed that since installing it the bonnet was much harder to close and also the lever to open it was hard to pull. Looking under the bonnet I could see where the top of the battery was pushing against the bonnet so this was preventing the bonnet from closing easily and putting a lot more pressure into the mechanism making it hard to open. eventually it must have popped out of its housing from that pressure.

I removed the negative terminal brass piece and replaced it with a washer instead. The bonnet closed much easier and was easy to release.

Problem solved and fixed! (For now).

Cheers to everyone who offered ideas, always helps!

Thanks.

**drivesafe** · 20th January 2022, 02:55 PM

Hi WabiSabi, could you post up some photos of the battery terminals, with and without the brass terminals?

**WabiSabi** · 21st January 2022, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi WabiSabi, could you post up some photos of the battery terminals, with and without the brass terminals?

Yes will do.

**DiscoJeffster** · 21st January 2022, 09:00 AM

I removed the terminals from my battery (SS

and then simply bolted the cables directly to the remaining studs. This dropped the height of the battery, looked cleaner and stopped it/removed the risk of it interfering with the bonnet.

**Jeffoir** · 21st January 2022, 11:32 AM

Wabisabi,
This is brilliant. So pleased for you.
I am also impressed with your diagnosis as to the cause.
Great teamwork.
Best wishes,
Jeffoir

**ekim** · 22nd January 2022, 02:22 PM

Hi , I think this is my first post, hope it works out.

I got bored and decided to have a look at how to release the bonnet catches.

I found that the catches need only to be released from the left (passenger side).
WabiSabi must have pushed the arm (solid line, in the photos) that the cable goes through. If you get a blade screwdriver and come onto the cable (back of the nipple, 3 dots )it releases both catches. I cut a 'v' into a blade screwdriver and that worked a treat to stop the cable jumping around.
Thanks Cheers

IMG20220122123519_LI (Small).jpg IMG20220122123441_LI (Small).jpg

**Jeffoir** · 21st February 2022, 12:30 PM

So my D4 bonnet release failed on the weekend. I could hear a pop as I pulled the handle and at that moment, I could feel through the handle that the cable 'gave-way,' just as I actioned it. Ultimately i found that the cause was the plastic junction box lid had popped open and allowed the release handle cable end to come away from the plastic shuttle inside the junction box.

After getting the grille out, and FINALLY getting the bonnet open, I could see the the junction box problem so have placed three cable ties around it to keep the lid in place. Before doing that however, it was nagging me, that maybe the lid popped open due to excessive tension on the cable. Maybe as well as being a 'junction' this might be a pressure release? Anyone have an opinion on that?

Anyway, I took the opportunity to completely service the system by removing the latches and cleaning them in carburetor cleaner. Then lubricated them with dry lube, PTFE spray. I then put a very small amount of white lithium grease on the contact point of the latches and on contact point of the bonnet 'hooks' and wiped away excess. I also removed the under bonnet cable and sprayed PTFE down the cable. Some PTFE down the cable into the cabin handle as well. Running very smoothly now. Reassembled and tested the latches with a screwdriver many times prior to actually closing the bonnet. (I wasn't going through that again!)

I can see that this is a recurring problem.
Does anyone know of a permanent emergency access method that can be set up in advance? In a similar motivation to the emergency access set-ups for cable failure in the rear door. If there isn't a method, Would the following work?

<> a new cable 'loop' secured around the release cable, immediately 'upstream' on the passenger side latch movement.
<> This could actuate both latches when pulled.
<> then feed this 'loop' through to a discreet place behind the grille where it could be accessed from the front of the car.
<> The cable may need a plastic housing to negotiate twists and turns.
<> there is an obstructive plastic backing behind the top of the grille. It is for security I suppose.
<> This backing would need a hole drilled in it.
<> Nothing obvious. The method just known to the owner.

Thank you and Best wishes,
Jeffoir

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