Thread: How Many Hours to Remove an 2014 TDV6 Alternator

Interesting. While it wasn’t straightforward, I’m sure I did mine in a couple of hours. My only issue was removing the variable voltage sensor wire on the back of it was difficult as I couldn’t work out the plug from underneath. I actually ended up cutting the wire and then soldering it back up once I got it out. The positive connector was a pain but I remember you could unbolt them alternator to get better access to it (I think).

The power diodes usually fail first, being avalanche type whereby their trigger voltage slowly lowers resulting in a dead short. If you're going to the trouble of removing the alternator before it fails then consider replacing it.

When I replaced mine, I did unbolt first then disconnect the wiring. Have to hold it near install spot to get behind and undo the connector. IIRC about 2h all up including pulling the underbody protection panels off.

Is the D2 alternator susceptible to diode failure like this?

As mine is original at 330 K km / 19 years 😳. ( but with new brushes).

Originally Posted by Graeme

The power diodes usually fail first, being avalanche type whereby their trigger voltage slowly lowers resulting in a dead short. If you're going to the trouble of removing the alternator before it fails then consider replacing it.

D2 alternators weren't known for failed diodes so probably used normal diodes, not reverse switching avalanche / Zener diodes that deteriorate to short circuit.

My D2 alternator failed at 134KK, ( a couple of days after I bought it) because the front camshaft plug was leaking and the oil ran into the brush box, wearing the brushes out.
Also my Negative stupid bolt down terminal was unable to be tightened and I think that exacerbated the issue.
I was able to buy a new brush box from the UK and fitted it and have it as a spare, as well as had a new negative battery terminal fitted..
So make sure you have a good seal on your front camshaft plug.
Regards PhilipA

Well you should leave sleeping dogs lie.

Firstly let me clear one issue, the alternator fitted to my 2014 build L319 Discovery is Denso Part Number AH22-10300-AC, 10 42 10 2421 this cross references to Denso DAN 1105 which is a 150 Amp unit. I wont go into the complexities of LR Part Nos for this device except to add the very latest listing appears to be LR124836.

Next gem of wisdom is the Regulator Part No in this device is GC6 3570 which can be sourced as a separate item.

Now to the chase, as posted previously I removed my alternator to replace the brushes and bearings. Because this version of the SDV6 is twin turbo the access to the alternator is very restricted and the turbo pipe support bracket has to be removed.

During removal I managed to sever the regulator excitation cable which I repaired and length extended to make assembly easier. I also inserted a join in the alternator cable where it terminates on the Starter Motor and extended its length to also make reassembly easier.

I fitted a new brush box and rear bearing which was weeping grease. Cleaned and polished the slip rings. The front bearing I left untouched as it exhibited no faults.

Refitting the alternator became a little easier. Initial engine start up went without problems and voltages measured at the battery terminals were compatible with a "normal alternator".

Next engine restart, after 30 seconds, the Charging Fault appears on the dash, my scanner confirmed the fault and using the voltage diagnostic function revealed voltages only around 13V despite the battery not being fully charged.

Right now I have the alternator removed for the second time, bench tested rotor slip ring and new brush box continuity, diodes for shorts, all showing no fault.

I cannot duplicate the complex signal function that controls the voltage regulation on this type of alternator, "KISS" is not in Land Rovers vocabulary.

Next week Alternator is off to the Auto Electrician to see if he has the resources to fully test this type of alternator, after I test to ensure there is no voltage drops in the alternator connection cables.

If anyone has a means to diagnose how this drama has evolved I would appreciate it.

Edit. I recall now it was 180amp and superseded to 150amp. Either way, it has no bearing on your issue.