[QUOTE]I wouldn't overthink it /QUOTE]
Probably the best summary of this issue in the thread!
In all honesty I rarely use a torque wrench for anything. I’ve found over the years my hand, using the right sized tool for the job (eg 1/4 or 3/8” for a 10mm nut) means you have the right feel on the nut and when it’s tight versus overtightened and potentially stripped. I only torque things that have clearances involved like engine assembly. I do pay attention to wet and dry torques and also tensions that use angle.
I do torque my wheel nuts dry when I’m at home as I have the wrench and I get annoyed with overtightened nuts. Obviously in the bush I use the torque wrench built into my leg and if I remember I’ll redo at another opportunity. I choose to clean the threads with a wire brush and run them dry
As I said, there’s enough margin of error in these things that it’s rarely an actual issue.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
[QUOTE]I wouldn't overthink it /QUOTE]
Probably the best summary of this issue in the thread!
True for safety, but I've certainly worked on more than one type of vehicle where unevenly or grossly over torqued lug nuts will lead to rotor warping after a few good heat cycles.
I have several 1/2" torque wrenches around the place. They may not be incredibly accurate, but they are "close enough" and more repeatable than my elbow clicking.
IME (RRC) all nuts going on studs for steel wheels have a tapered seat and nuts going on studs for aftermarket alloy wheels have a flat seat. I would not expect the 'correct' torque values to be the same for each type of wheel.
Wheel studs for RRC's have a different symbol marked on the outer end of them for alloy wheels compared with those for the early steel wheels. Pretty sure there is a difference in length.
DL
Yes the early steels wheels have a shorter thread which is designed to be flush with the top of the nut when tightened.
But as long as there is about 80% engagement it is OK.
Regards PhilipA
Actually…I do - I have a 1/2” TW in my car tool kit. I had a trailer tyre come off on our new camper trailer in its maiden voyage because the guy forgot to check the wheel nuts as part of his pre delivery check. As a result I’ve been quite religious in checking the trailer and car wheel nuts before going on a long trip ever since.
Incidentally I had no idea that 140nm was the torque value. I thought it was 120nm. Thanks everyone, I’ll wind the TW up a bit. I normally do the trailer to the same as the car.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
One of my fave youtubers has to be Project Farm.
His anti seize video here :
Shows that anti seize can, but doesn't necessarily reduce the torque required for loosening nuts.
But following on from the data he got from the 'control' nuts ... and my experience with the easy to snap Inter wheels studs and the steel wheels on my RRC and bent up wheel brace, and the subsequent need to improvise with hacked tools to remove a flat in the middle of nowhere ...
A little bit less torque on removal is better than having it stuck hard when you least want it too.
So if an average of say 10-15% lower torque is needed to remove(with anti seize), there shouldn't be too much issue to add say 10% more to the required value to begin with if you use anti seize. Or just use cheaper no name anti seize
As already mentioned wheel nuts are under stressed compared to their ultimate torque rating.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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