Thread: Discovery 3 ownership so far......

Good work. I’m sure the suspension fault will be easy to resolve. Get a cheap code reader that at least can read and clear. Try OBD2 With Bluetooth iPhone & Android – OBD2 Australia - good thing is it works on all car brands.

The early D3s had a known fault with the diff paint which was soon corrected and doesn’t occur on later models from about 08 onwards. Change the oil regularly as there’s not much of it.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Good work. I’m sure the suspension fault will be easy to resolve. Get a cheap code reader that at least can read and clear. Try OBD2 With Bluetooth iPhone & Android – OBD2 Australia - good thing is it works on all car brands.

The early D3s had a known fault with the diff paint which was soon corrected and doesn’t occur on later models from about 08 onwards. Change the oil regularly as there’s not much of it.

Agree on the OBD2 AU reader, works on my D3, wifes X-trail with Nissan datascan and the old mans ML350 using torque lite app.

depending on if you have the e.diff the actuator motor can cause issues. I had about 2 years of fault codes that would pop up, get cleared and eventually come back. Replaced the actuator and so far its been good.
Did it myself, not an overly difficult job.

LCAs I need to get done soon and front diff pinion seal as its weeping.

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

depending on if you have the e.diff the actuator motor can cause issues. I had about 2 years of fault codes that would pop up, get cleared and eventually come back. Replaced the actuator and so far its been good.
Did it myself, not an overly difficult job.

LCAs I need to get done soon and front diff pinion seal as its weeping.

I dont think the E-dif was an option on the petrol V6.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Agree on the OBD2 AU reader, works on my D3, wifes X-trail with Nissan datascan and the old mans ML350 using torque lite app.

OBD2 tool has been ordered.

Great summary.

Suspension faults most likely to be the valve blocks at each corner. You’ve changed the desiccant in the compressor, but most likely the galeries at each corner are partially blocked. There’s a really good o ring kit available from the UK and the rebuild is easy to do.

Raised air intake not only looks great but in my view extends air filter life and against water ingress. Make sure you get it professionally installed or make really sure you understand the installation process if attempting DIY.

Re a code reader, I went with the Rovacom unit over the GAPiid and have no trouble diagnosing and clearing all fault codes, before that I used a $50 eBay cheapy that also worked ok, but it was very limited and only able to clear high level codes.

your fuel economy figures are pretty good for a large 4wd petrol engined brick.

lca’s are pretty easy to diy, most on here replace the complete arm as this means you also get new ball joints and the install is much easier. Check the rear arms as well, mine were knackered at 200000km.

also, if towing often, replace the rear sway bar links with Superpro adjustable units, this tightens up the rear and makes for better handling when towing imho. I also did the fronts with Mehle HD units (larger ball joints but non adjustable) at 200,000km.

Ok so here’s my D3 ownership. 2008 tdv6 purchased in 2011 from TRS in SA after arriving there in our D2 and getting offered a swap over deal we found hard to pass up. Just finished the canning stock route in 2010 in the D2 and limped it into Lonsdale in 2011.
Had from memory the D3 32000ks on the clock , fitted with long range tank and snorkel but otherwise pretty standard 7 seat tdv6.
Times it left us stranded- 0
Times we nursed it into either getting repaired or trying to repair it - 3
-First was failed rear upper door latch- managed to remove cargo barrier via 2nd row seats to get into rear
-2nd , failed rear wheel bearing in Tasmania, the guru of all things LR, JC managed to fit us in so we could make the ferry back to the main land. 1 of the noisiest and hardest 70km drive to his workshop I have ever done
-3rd HPFP , faulted numerous times , I was working away and the boss was struggling getting by so got the only LR man in Darwin to replace, ended up also doing LPFP .
Amount of times I’ve been asked why I have a Land Rover not a land cruiser in remote plate places.. I don’t have enough fingers and toes to count correctly

Items replaced as either precaution or necessary
Oil pump - had the old style pump so changed at belt change
Front wheel bearings, tried the cheap option- don’t bother, order the timken bearings from uk and be done with it
Rear wheel bearings as mentioned
4 x air stunts and shocks
Rear upper and lower arms
Front lower arms twice
Metal gearbox sump and oil changed at maximum 50k
Belt tensioner
Idler pulley
Run seperate alternator charging line as I didn’t like the starter , alternator in 1 idea with a 400amp fuse and a 150amp alternator, all I could see was a dead short resulting in a car stranded wherever.

Items done to suit my needs
Front bar
Rear wheel carrier
Roof rack
Traxide 3 battery kit

Car gets oil changes at approx 6 months but I order my filter kits from UK with 3 extra oil filters so every time oil goes on sale I usually just do a filter and oil change, same with air cleaners and fuel filters. Don’t think I can count on fingers and toes how many times I’ve cleaned the Y piece or the MAP and MAF

Places it has taken us.
Never hesitated to jump in it and tour , done gibb river red 3 times including Kalumburu and Mitchell falls , toured east coast to Melbourne, across to tassie, back thru SA and home thru the middle to Darwin.
Done Arnhem Land , willige fish village, and lower port essington. Down to Perth and across to Denmark and valley of the giants and back home to Darwin up thru Newman and marble bar.
Plus been the wife’s daily driver who jumps in and turns the key, oblivious to anything else.

Currently towing our 3.1t house down the west coast from Darwin to Perth.

Issues I’ve had, numerous faults, most related to air suspension and living in tropics, had HPFP, park brake and a couple of odd ball ones, but 1 way or another have managed to get by with the help of a code reader and having a supply of spares.

Currently have a gearbox hunting or judder issue, annoys me as I’ve done everything to nurse this gearbox with early oil changes, but it is what it is and at 195,000ks I will see where it goes from here, currently in port headland and hopefully I can nurse it thru to Perth.

I’ve bought endless spares, whether they are needed or not depends on your viewpoint, I’m a ex commercial fisherman who spent months at a time at sea , so we carried heaps of spares , so I treat my cars no different, I have starter motor, alternator, wheel bearings, water outlet, full set of hoses, front and rear air struts, new air compressor,plus many others

Sadly for me when the time comes to move the D3 on , it won’t be a current LR as the D4 3.0 scares me and these days I actually enjoy my sleep so the worry of the 3.0 and it’s numourous issues doesn’t see my $$ going that way. They all look the same to me from the rr to the d5 and everything in between, and well the defender I think is quite ugly and for the price they are asking , there are other brands that I see will suit my needs for far less $$. I wish the defender influencer who was on here a few years back spruiking $80k was correct, I may get past the looks

I know I have a decision to make with the gearbox, but if I have to do the box and the TC and it cost say $10k it’s probaly a good option in my case seeing I have about 7k in spares . I’m sure there’s plenty I have forgotten but that’s a fair idea of my ownership.

I doubt I can walk into something close for $50k

Cheers Bulletman

Heres my cost experience with my D3 - and for a reference I compare it to my previous 80 series land cruiser