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Thread: Cold Star Problems 2012 2.7 Diesel Discovery 4

  1. #1
    thredbo Guest

    Cold Star Problems 2012 2.7 Diesel Discovery 4

    Hello from Snowy Mountains,

    0 degrees C and again my Discovery 4 will not start easily. Takes maybe 10 times of cycling / pressing brake pedal and start button to get it to start and then shuddering for the first few seconds. My friend's same car parked beside has no issues and starts instantly. Battery is new. Is there a trick to getting the car to start in cold weather. I see "Cold Starting in Progress" and glow plug light goes out. What is the possible issue? Maybe a sensor? No issue in warmer temperatures. Car is serviced by Land Rover shop and goes well. Have owned car six years and this cold start problem seems to have appeared first time last year and now a bigger problem.

    Many thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Perth
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    Could be faulty glow plugs as a guess?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Kalgoorlie WA
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    My 2011 2.7 does similar on very cold mornings here in Kalgoorlie, though it still fires up on the first cranking attempt. Morning temps have been getting down close to zero some days lately. Sometimes it is a "longer" period of cranking required, and a bit of juddering when it first fires up before settling down to a smooth idle. Only does it maybe one day in three - other days are quite normal on the first start-up for the day.

    I'm betting on glow plugs, though it is not a serious enough issue for me at the moment to bother with.
    I did have almost exactly the same problem with my F100 a while back (it had a 6.2 V8 Chev Diesel in it). Replaced the glow plugs in that and no more issues with it.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
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    Perth
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    Same in Perth in recent days noticed a few extra revolutions on one super cold morning.

    LR Time demonstrated that 50% of glow plugs can be kaput which in extreme cold climates is a critical thing to avoid long crank times that delay achieving correct oil pressure.

    They don’t register a fault if they are not working but you can resistance test them on the engine I think.

    Originals are best also.

    Mine has originals so goodness knows how many still work but not cold enough here to worry.

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