Fossicker
SupporterI'm about 3/4 the way through my first DIY mod - I'm putting in a GME XRS-370C UHF radio with a GME Antenna mounted on a Labtronx mount.
antenna2.jpg
Like the UHF setup in Scott's D4 Build (which has been tremendously helpful in both what to do and how to do it), I've located the box under the passenger seat. But unlike his build, I decided that I wanted to use a fuse tap off of a fuse in the fuse box rather than splice into the rear console cigarette lighter. I've got it working insomuch that I have power to the UHF, but there are a few details that aren't quite right.
Like other threads, I first attempted to tap into one of the cigarette lighter/aux power circuits. Most use fuse 53 - I didn't want that because I use the front lighter ports to power USB adapters. So I tried to use 55 - Aux Power Centre and Rear, but the fuse tap didn't fit. So I used 47 - Sunroof .... which worked and I'm assuming it is unused because I don't have a sunroof. Also, this fuse isn't switched, so maybe that's a bad thing. I'm curious about others' thoughts on this choice of fuse positions. On the one hand, I like that it is (I think) completely unused. I just don't like that it isn't switched.
When I was wiring it all in was that I couldn't find anywhere to earth. I was following this thread to guide my wiring attempts. Rather than drill a hole to earth, I undid the torx screw that screws into that metal bracket. It must work because the UHF powers up and works. But I'm wondering if there is a "more correct" place do earth?
earth.jpg
I can't figure out a way to route the power cable from the UHF to under the plastic door sill cover. I tried removing the big plastic trim piece that runs along the power seat rail, but only got about 1/2 way and got really worried that I wouldn't be able to get it back on. Any suggestions on how to clean this up?
electric.jpg
The final issue is with that sill cover (above picture, red arrow). I got it off. Any advice on how to get it back so that it stays in place? Its got these funny plastic tabs that go into slots with clips ... but I can't get them to snap into place. So right now it is held in place by gravity. Not ideal.
The only thing remaining is to dremel out a place in the cupholder for the mic port. Once I get done, I may start my own build thread.
Cheers,
Carl
Wizard
SubscriberI took power from the permanent 12V supply under the seat for the electric seats, no need to worry about getting a cable from the fuse box to under the seat. I fitted an inline fuse between the power seat connection and the UHF.
The door trim plastic tabs push into metal clips. Chances are these metal clips have ended up in the cable duct. You’ll need to find these clips, then fit them to the plastic tabs, then refit the trim.
2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)
Fossicker
SupporterThanks Kelvo - that does sounds like a pretty solid plan. But I'm already in the fuse box and I've already ran the cables, so I'll leave it there for now. If I can't figure a solution for my power cable, that'll be plan B. The other option would be to come up through the centre console along where I routed the antenna cable.Originally Posted by kelvo
Regarding that trim ... yup. There's no metal clips on the tabs. Guess I need to go fishing ...
I got the rest of the installation done. Not as good of a job as Scott's. I didn't realise the cupholder only went in one way and of course I went into the wrong side. Oh well ... It works and looks good enough. If it bothers me too much, I'll buy another and do it properly.
head_unit.jpg
Cheers,
Carl
ChatterBox
SubscriberDumb question probably but could you install the unit in the engine bay and only run the handset lead into the cab? I assume on the removable handset type that is the speaker also?
The void around the brake booster would be ideal.
There a many clever ways to hide it inside the cab but is it absolutely necessary?
OldBushie
They aren’t IP rated so unsuitable for engine bay fitment.
Running headset lead would be much harder than running a single coax.
Super Moderator
SubscriberCarl, my UHF supply is also switched in that I’ve taken it from my aux battery setup. I prefer this so that it will always work if the vehicle is dead. The risk is forgetting to turn off the UHF when camped for awhile but there’s low voltage cutout protection and I think the UHF would take quite awhile to drain the aux.
Magnet on a flexible handle and some patient fishing should find quite a few of the metal sill clips.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
OldBushie
I have 2x 25w UHF commercial units on permanent power and always left on.
When in receive mode power consumption is very low, the vehicle sits for days without a problem.
Wizard
SubscriberMine times out if not used for a while. A few beeps for warning, so I can tap the transmit button if I want it on.
Mostly used for chatting with a convoy, so not monitoring the radio after we stop.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
ForumSage
SupporterIf the constant power feed really worries you, try one of these Dashcam Wiring Board - Converts 12v Battery to Igntion Feed + USB-A (powerfuluk.com)
Cheers,
Randy
2005 D3 TDV6 Present
1999 D2 TD5 Gone
Fossicker
SupporterI have been following thread as I intend to fit a UHF shortly. As stated, under the seat is the ideal place to mount a UHF with remote mic coming up to an accessible place (like between driver and passenger cupholders). But, Tombie raises a good point here. I suddenly thought that having the unit on the floor may lead to damage if you were submerged for some unfortunate reason. The first thing you will lose (at the lowest point in the cab, will be the UHF - your primary means of soliciting help!
I really like the idea of it being concealed, and seems like there are very few real options in the D4. To be honest, I rarely travel alone in remote areas, so not sure how much of an issue this would realistically be, but worth talking it through.
Does anyone have any other good locations that are maybe higher up?
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