That's what I'm paying for my replacement engine - and then add labour to do the swap.
Hats off to the OP, thats a big job, but you look like you know what you are doing. I tried the same but i dont have the space, the time or the will to have a car out for that long.
2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)
I didn't glean anything about the test at the time other than that the test was rather quick. I wondered if it was a vibration test, perhaps at specific revs and presumably with the serpentine belt and possibly the harmonic balancer removed.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Quote from someone who had theirs ‘inspected’ in China,
“The car was plugged into computer. There seemed to be a metal box with a pipe in and out about small shoe box size sitting on front cowl dont know what it was plugged into. Mine was also getting a new battery and a sport was parked next to mine getting test done. A lot of rev..idle etc they said mine would be next and would take 40 mins (mostly to get engine warm I suspect) as they were still changing battery i went for a light lunch expecting to return mid test but after 15 mins I returned it was all done.
They did add 500ml of oil(free) so i guess test required oil to max.
Not much else to say. I am sure some people can track the test code which was on the paper to find more info”
There was supposedly a 100% pass rate of the vehicles inspected.
2014, MY14 Discovery TDV6, Fuji White (2018-Now)
2003, Discovery 2a, Td5 Manual, Zambezi Silver (2012-2018)
2007, Adventure Offroad Campers, Grand Tourer (2015-Now)
Can you see any obvious wear or damage to the engine harmonic balancer pulley?
I am wondering if this component should be a serviceable item at say, 100,000 to 150,000 klms.
Failure of this pulley could create sufficient vibration to cause the breakage, and I'd think the most likely break area would be pretty much where yours is because the front section of the shaft is satisfactorily supported by the front main bearing. The section between the front and second mains is where I'd expect some whip to develop if the balancer is playing up.
I'd suggest you get the broken shaft crack/fatigue tested out of interest as it will help you (and us!!) determine the cause.
.......and I still think you should discuss the situation with an engine race prep specialist who I'm sure would have a very strong opinion on the breakage when you show him the failed parts. These guys have seen all these problems on many occasions!
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
Am wondering if this saga is similar to that experienced by Jowett Javelin owners. Jowett Car Co in the UK produced the Javelin in the late 1940's to early 1950's. The engine was a 1.5 litre flat four along the lines of a VW engine, however the Jowett was water cooled.
It very quickly developed a rather unenviable reputation for breaking crankshafts. My father had two Javelins and broke two crankshafts....
Laystall Engineering in the UK produced an uprated shaft which instantly fixed the problem. As a young lad in the middle/late 1950's I remember dad saying that the first question a prospective S/H Javelin purchaser would ask the seller was "does it have a Laystall shaft?"...![]()
Before: Ser 2a LWB, Ser 3 S/W, 1979 RR 2 door, 1981 LR Stage 1 V8 (new), 1985 LR 110 V8 County (new), 2009 RRS TDV8
Now: MY13 D4 TDV6. "E" rear diff. Cambo's magic Engine & Auto Tune. 1968 Austin 1800 Mk1 auto (my 5th)
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