Thread: 3.0 TDV6 broken crankshaft / engine rebuild

Stick with it Fabsky - you know this engine better than most now.

Sounds like you will have to start stripping back some of the ancillaries around the front so you can get a good look at the source of the oil leak.

Or you need a good inspection camera on a flexible shaft with led light on the end to poke around and inspect (my next essential tool I will buy for the TDV6).

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Why not just take it to someone who knows what they’re doing and ask them to correctly diagnose the issues???? Then if you’re cheap, fix it yourself. Stop guessing

In an ideal world, a sane person would probably do that. It's not guessing, it's more about getting to know, exploring this engine. My post was intended to call the board of people who could somehow point me on the right track, something I hadn't paid attention to before.

DiscoDB

“Stick with it Fabsky - you know this engine better than most now.

Don't worry, at this cognitive/research stage, I won't give up without a fight. Analyzing my rebuild, I stumbled upon something that I had not paid attention to before. I'm hoping this is exactly what I'm looking for.
I already removed the left inlet manifold and timing cover in less than 4 hours 😎

Where is it leaking??? Front of the engine??

As a guide, my intake duct (bit that fits onto the throttle body / Y piece) had fractured tabs for the clip and was able to move slightly and then the intake vapour oil would leak out and down the front of the engine over all the hoses and down the front. For a small amount of oil it was a lot of mess.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Where is it leaking??? Front of the engine??

As a guide, my intake duct (bit that fits onto the throttle body / Y piece) had fractured tabs for the clip and was able to move slightly and then the intake vapour oil would leak out and down the front of the engine over all the hoses and down the front. For a small amount of oil it was a lot of mess.

I had a similar leak which turned out to be a combination of diesel getting through the temperature sender in the aforementioned Y-piece area, and a blanked off port on the Fomoco oil pump not sealed properly with thread tape, loctite, etc.

I should add, a leaking oil pump shaft seal can be picked up by the belt and carried up the engine and may be distributed further by the radiator fan.

Get a cheap camera, very helpful. Jay car has them.

I prefer the USB ones so you can use the bigger PC screen

Hi Fabsky,
I’ve been entranced by your reports and videos of this rebuild. Frustrating right now, no doubt, but you will prevail. Well done Fab.
You continue to impress me. Well done and best wishes. Jeff

Originally Posted by johnhorgan

You have to be very careful re-using a snapped crank block. The last one I removed I had to sledgehammer the broken pieces of crankshaft out in order to remove the torque converter (I could not turn the engine).
The 2.7 engine is almost the same as the 3.0, the only noticeable difference being the breather outlet in the v of the block (the hole comes from a slightly different position). The modification is due to the 3.0 fuel pump being slightly taller.
I routed the breather pipe to fresh air to overcome the difference, but you could cut and shut the original breather unit to fit.
The only other update was to replace the main and big end bearing shells. All of the engines I have dismantled whether running or not have had noticeable wear on the shells, with many having missing thrust washers.
The 2.7 engine performs well, its hard to tell the difference.
This is a very good site to visit; DISCO3.CO.UK - Index

Hay mate do you have any more info on this I’ve done it on a few 2.7 d4’s and was no issues so I baught a 3.0 d4 and the breather set up on the 2.7 has me worried I’ll run into other issues any info would be great cheers jay