Thread: Fuel Pressure Challenge 2010 D4 2.7

I feel your pain. At this stage all seems ok, but I'm still anxious when I drive the car. I still need to take it for a long drive.

I'm not sure what LPFP amps should be. I'm sure someone can shed some light here. I think the injectors sorted it out in the end. If you don't have a GAP Tool then I recommend you get one. This was a big help for me, along with other members suggestions.

I got caught in the double barrel parts bomb, so be careful of that. There appears to be so many variables that can cause the fault. Very frustrating.

I'll let the group know the outcome once I've put some decent k's on it.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by Morris

I feel your pain. At this stage all seems ok, but I'm still anxious when I drive the car. I still need to take it for a long drive.

I'm not sure what LPFP amps should be. I'm sure someone can shed some light here. I think the injectors sorted it out in the end. If you don't have a GAP Tool then I recommend you get one. This was a big help for me, along with other members suggestions.

I got caught in the double barrel parts bomb, so be careful of that. There appears to be so many variables that can cause the fault. Very frustrating.

I'll let the group know the outcome once I've put some decent k's on it.

Good luck.

I have a GAP tool, great bit of kit, unfortunately doesn't help out with the issue I've been facing, but i will get it in to a garage again over the coming weeks and hopefully get to enjoy the vehicle soon

Hi all.

I thought it would be good to give you an update on the fuel pressure outcome.

A week before Christmas I had all 6 injectors replaced. I sent my old ones for testing and they found 2 faulty injectors.

Since the injectors have been replaced, I've driven 2000ks of city, freeway and hilly country driving and so far the fuel pressure fault has no longer showed its ugly head. I did a quick trip to Batemans Bay on the weekend and all good. I gave it a good test on The Clyde Mountain on the way home.

Unfortunately today another fault developed. The dash lit up with all sorts of failures. Trans Failure. ABS Failure. Emergency Brake Failure. Lowered for Safety warning. Hand Brake. Just a crazy list. Connected my Gap tool and faults codes:

• P1335-21 (28) Exhaust gas recirculation position sensor minimum stop performance - General signal failure.
• P0571-61 (6C) Brake switch A circuit - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure.

I dropped into my Indi and he said EGR valves are shot, which I understand is a common problem. Cleared fault codes and off I went. Fault hasn't shown up again.

Any thoughts around this?

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Morris

Hi all.

I thought it would be good to give you an update on the fuel pressure outcome.

A week before Christmas I had all 6 injectors replaced. I sent my old ones for testing and they found 2 faulty injectors.

Since the injectors have been replaced, I've driven 2000ks of city, freeway and hilly country driving and so far the fuel pressure fault has no longer showed its ugly head. I did a quick trip to Batemans Bay on the weekend and all good. I gave it a good test on The Clyde Mountain on the way home.

Unfortunately today another fault developed. The dash lit up with all sorts of failures. Trans Failure. ABS Failure. Emergency Brake Failure. Lowered for Safety warning. Hand Brake. Just a crazy list. Connected my Gap tool and faults codes:

• P1335-21 (28) Exhaust gas recirculation position sensor minimum stop performance - General signal failure.
• P0571-61 (6C) Brake switch A circuit - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure.

I dropped into my Indi and he said EGR valves are shot, which I understand is a common problem. Cleared fault codes and off I went. Fault hasn't shown up again.

Any thoughts around this?

Thanks again.

If I was a betting man, I’d say the brake switch is the problem.

That, or power - is your battery healthy?

A brake switch fault will trigger all those ABS faults and the suspension ecu will lower to its safe (access) height.

Thanks for your responses.

I often left foot brake to keep the power on and was told that this could confuse the ECU and trigger the faults. The brake switch seems an easy job (I think) so worthwhile doing that anyway.

Battery. Not sure. I'll get it checked. I've had no problems with it so far.

I doubt the brake switch would trigger an EGR fault, so this is the concerning and costly one.

I'll repost in a new post with the relevant heading so as to avoid confusion with fuel issues. EGR Fault Code

Thanks again.

Left foot braking is a definite no no - if it detects brake and throttle at same time it is known to throw faults as it assumes one of the conflicting signals is wrong and has failed.

That issue was addressed a long time ago but perhaps some vehicles are still using old firmware.

The switches have 2 sets of contacts and if they don't switch simultaneously then a fault can be registered. I always carried a spare switch.