Hi Guys - 2014 Disco 4 SDV6 - The common cracked inlet manifold issue!

Hey guys,

Just purchased a 2014 TDV6 (finally took the plunge!), only thing is that it is due for both manifold replacements in the "near future". Getting pricing now and indy has suggested aluminium replacements. I guess this makes sense as the plastic genuine hasn't really cut it.


Has anyone opted for aluminium replacements?
Confirming what else is worth replacing at the same time? (for peace of mind, used primary family vehicle around Brissy)
What else would you request to inspect/check? I have a slight leak around the starter motor that could be related.
Any benefit in also remapping ECU at the same time to spec up to SDV6?

P.S. thank you everyone, this forum has been excellent source of information while researching for a purchase.

The aluminium ones came to the aftermarket in the last year. They’re not genuine but from internet commentary, they work well and fit. I’d go that way now personally.

Have the top water outlet (coolant housing LR073372 ) replaced - common failure point

Check if the oil cooler is leaking too while you’re there. Common issue as well. While you’re there you could opt to simply replace that too. It’s in the V between the manifolds.

Wish the alu ones were available when mine went.....definitely the better option. Do both at the same time, they do the same pressure and heat cycles. To me its a manufacture issue, had the passenger side fail at about 160000km. Replaced both with genuine. Car since moved on.

Define better option….

Heat soak issues - unknown, this includes performance, longevity of items attached or subjected to the heat, and also potential hose/paint damage to bonnet from additional heat soak.

We know nothing of the longevity of the alloy casting, unknown thickness, unknown grade.

all completely unproven.


Factory units usually good for 10 years or 100,000km+

So which one is really better atm[emoji41]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Define better option….

Heat soak issues - unknown, this includes performance, longevity of items attached or subjected to the heat, and also potential hose/paint damage to bonnet from additional heat soak.

We know nothing of the longevity of the alloy casting, unknown thickness, unknown grade.

all completely unproven.


Factory units usually good for 10 years or 100,000km+

So which one is really better atm[emoji41]

---

They cannot be worse than **** plastic.

Could this be a sign of the manifolds on the out? Slight oil weeping on the starter motor and bell housing inspection hole

I’m toying with the idea of replacing the manifolds preventatively or just copping it down the track via reduced performance. If that does happen is there potential for further engine damage?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...89a57f99c4.jpg

I dont think so, oil that low can be from several things, including leaking oil cooler, camshaft covers or similar. When one of the plastic inlet manifolds lets go, there's a pop and a hiss from under the bonnet , and the red triangle of doom pops up in the display, followed by Restricted Performance message. Engine stil runs, just has low power as it cannot build enough boost pressure in the intake.

Typically pasenger side goes first, in my opinion best to replace both at the same time.

Depends on how many kms on the car, and,if for example, you are planning a big trip towing a van, it would be a good idea to replace them, nothing worse thsn wastimg holiday time waiting for your car to be fixed.

If just running around town, the car will get you home or to the mechanic, albeit at a leisurely pace and with not enough grunt to pull the skin off a rice pudding

We had our manifold fail a few years back whilst driving up the coast, towing a camper trailer (guessing 1.5 or 1.7t).

Yep, big pop, triangle and restricted performance, but here is the kicker: we still got there. The old girl towed the trailer another hour or so to get to our spot, we drove on the beach (albeit in known 'not too soft' areas out of caution), then took the whole lot of us home again a few days later.

Fuel consumption was diabolical, the back of the car covered in soot on return, and huge smoke screens being produced when driving up hills (handy for the building queue of impatient other cars behind me).

Would have preferred no failure at all, but credit to the machine for not completely stopping on us!

A friend just fitted two aluminium manifolds to an SDV6 and I saw them prior to fitting. They appear well made and the casting looks good.
Only time will tell I guess.

Having said that, I can see and must concur with Tombie's points; the new OEM Genuine should be "bulletproof" now, considering that according to the LR Service News one of the problems was due to incorrect casting/moulding processes by the company who made them for LR and not so much due to bad design.

It's the cheaper non-Genuine plastic ones I'd be staying well away from because as far as I'm aware it hasn't been determined if they are made by the same manufacturer as the Genuine ones.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Discodicky

A friend just fitted two aluminium manifolds to an SDV6 and I saw them prior to fitting. They appear well made and the casting looks good.
Only time will tell I guess.

Having said that, I can see and must concur with Tombie's points; the new OEM Genuine should be "bulletproof" now, considering that according to the LR Service News one of the problems was due to incorrect casting/moulding processes by the company who made them for LR and not so much due to bad design.

It's the cheaper non-Genuine plastic ones I'd be staying well away from because as far as I'm aware it hasn't been determined if they are made by the same manufacturer as the Genuine ones.

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Buddy. Don’t believe it. I’m on the third on one side and they’re genuine. They haven’t improved as much as we might like to think. Just go the ali ones. You’ll thank me if you’re a long term user.