Hi Guys - 2014 Disco 4 SDV6 - The common cracked inlet manifold issue!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fourteen8

Anyone can recommend any indie in Melbourne to replace inlet manifold most passenger side and how much approximately they will charge? Thanks

---

Greg at AMV in Ringwood is who I use, been using him for over 10 years, had a few unhappy moments as you always do eventually with any workshop but overall very good, well priced and always rectified any issues very quickly

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Discodicky

I did mine in April last year and these are the following parts I bought from Alan at British 4WD, Seven Mile Beach, Hobart, just around the corner from me:

LR166213 LH manifold $622.72
LR179201 RH manifold $622.73
131652 Throttle body seal $41.00
LR008353 Throttle body seal front $9.50
DA7014 Fitting kit 3.0 inlet manifold (2 of) (injector seals etc) $63.00 EACH

At the time, Genuine ones were like Rocking Horse manure.... almost impossible to find.
Plenty of after market ones around but I wasn't prepared to try.

Those above are Genuine LR manifolds and came in Genuine LR boxes.

Suggest you replace the oil cooler & new "O" rings on oil separator as well whilst manifolds are off as its a doddle.
P/n LR040738 oil cooler $361.00
1337060 oil seal separator (3 off) $12.00 each

I would think those prices would have risen somewhat due to exchange rates and huge freight increases.

---

Passenger side is LH side?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fourteen8

Passenger side is LH side?

---

….it is if you have a right hand drive vehicle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

*There is no rhyme or reason, some go some don't.
*I have plenty of customers with high mileage D4s, been tuned that havent had a cracked inlet manifold. 250K and plus.
*I have done plenty of both sdv6 and tdv6 with cracked manifolds.

*I generally say to customers do the side that's cracked as you arent going to save any money by doing both at the same time.
*If I do a drivers side manifold which is the most common, the passenger side may go in 10K, 100K down the track or it may never fail.
*I keep 6 drivers side manifolds in stock, I keep 1 passenger side in stock.

*Its more likely at some point in the manufacturing chain FoMoCo either screwed their existing supplier or went to another supplier to get a cheaper deal.
*Its just a typical FoMoCo part with average to poor quality control.

P.S I use genuine for no other reason than I have seen some no genuine ones that look like they are made out of the same plastic as a last model Defender dash, which in turn looks like its made out of the same plastic used in packaging for some expensive tool or equipment.

---

Hi Dazzatd5

Local mechanic did the left inlet manifold for me, all done but the car keeping cranking but wouldn’t start. He did reuse the injector pipe. We couldn’t see any leak from any of the pipes.

Could you please give me/him some pointers what’s next to check? Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fourteen8

Hi Dazzatd5

Local mechanic did the left inlet manifold for me, all done but the car keeping cranking but wouldn’t start. He did reuse the injector pipe. We couldn’t see any leak from any of the pipes.

Could you please give me/him some pointers what’s next to check? Thanks

---

it can take quite a bit to bleed the fuel system before it starts. There is a Schrader valve on the top of the engine at the back for this purpose, if you search this forum you should find the method, but...

ignition on, valve pressed (you should, or a mechanic should have a fitting that screws on with a clear piece of pipe (mine has a gauge on it with a release button)) watch for all the air bubbles until the pump stops, ignition off... repeat until no air, you may have to do this quite a few times.

Normally I simply cycle the ignition on off 10 or so times, but if you have cranked it you prolly need to bleed it properly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

it can take quite a bit to bleed the fuel system before it starts. There is a Schrader valve on the top of the engine at the back for this purpose, if you search this forum you should find the method, but...

ignition on, valve pressed (you should, or a mechanic should have a fitting that screws on with a clear piece of pipe (mine has a gauge on it with a release button)) watch for all the air bubbles until the pump stops, ignition off... repeat until no air, you may have to do this quite a few times.

Normally I simply cycle the ignition on off 10 or so times, but if you have cranked it you prolly need to bleed it properly.

---

Did that but still no luck. It seems like low fuel pressure issue. Attached the reading from gap tool when trying to start it. Could it be the HPFP fail?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...893a5a0db8.jpg