Loss of 12v Power on Ignition

**Saitch** · 12th May 2023, 12:45 PM

Jumped in the D3 today, turned key, all dash lights as should be, turn to 'Ignition', all goes off, absolutely nix. Can't even get out of 'Park' and no remote locking. Crank battery at 12.6v.

I took the 'tilly to the bottlo, came back and tried the D3 again (about 45 min gap). Central locking all good, all lights on as normal, turn key, total blackout again.

The aux. battery is stuffed, on about 9v. Would this have any effect on things?

**Tombie** · 12th May 2023, 01:06 PM

Disconnect auxiliary and try again.
In all likelihood it’s been propping up the main for a while and the main is actually dead.

**Saitch** · 12th May 2023, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by Tombie

Disconnect auxiliary and try again.
In all likelihood it’s been propping up the main for a while and the main is actually dead.

Tombie, I have removed the aux, with crank showing 12.6v. Left it for another 15 mins and have power again.
Turn key to ignition and there is a sharp 'click' and all goes dead.

**Tombie** · 12th May 2023, 01:45 PM

Originally Posted by Saitch

Tombie, I have removed the aux, with crank showing 12.6v. Left it for another 15 mins and have power again.
Turn key to ignition and there is a sharp 'click' and all goes dead.

Sounds like starter trouble.
Solenoid is throwing and then nothing.

**scarry** · 12th May 2023, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by Saitch

Tombie, I have removed the aux, with crank showing 12.6v. Left it for another 15 mins and have power again.
Turn key to ignition and there is a sharp 'click' and all goes dead.

The 12.6V could be just a surface voltage,get someone to turn key while you look at voltage at battery on meter.
It may drop down to 8.0V or lower, or whatever,so that battery is shagged or needs a good charge then see how it goes.

Or if no one to help,just put it on a charger overnight.See how it goes in the morning.

**Saitch** · 12th May 2023, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by scarry

The 12.6V could be just a surface voltage,get someone to turn key while you look at voltage at battery on meter.
It may drop down to 8.0V or lower, or whatever,so that battery is shagged or needs a good charge then see how it goes.

Or if no one to help,just put it on a charger overnight.See how it goes in the morning.

Thanks, Paul.
I started the 'Recondition ' phase on the smart charger, a while ago, so I'll se how that goes.
I did use the D3 to jump start another vehicle, last Saturday. Perhaps too much for it's battery. Did have the revs up, though.

**DiscoDB** · 12th May 2023, 02:40 PM

Also check the mega fuse to the starter motor hasn’t blown.

**Gravy** · 12th May 2023, 06:05 PM

Originally Posted by scarry

The 12.6V could be just a surface voltage,get someone to turn key while you look at voltage at battery on meter.
It may drop down to 8.0V or lower, or whatever,so that battery is shagged or needs a good charge then see how it goes.

Or if no one to help,just put it on a charger overnight.See how it goes in the morning.

If you dont have an assistant turn your headlights and your heater fan to apply a load to the battery. If battery is good there should be a minimum decrease in the voltage measured at the battery.

josh.huber · 12th May 2023, 07:06 PM

Just to be clear, did you try to crank it, or just turn to ignition? If you didn't crank it starter has nothing to do with it

**BradC** · 12th May 2023, 07:13 PM

I've had this happen twice. First time was in the D3 and there was an issue with the clamp on the battery earth. Precisely the same symptoms and was rectified by a remove, clean and re-seat both terminals.

The second time was in the wifes Hyundai and the battery developed an internal fault. It'd hold a fine voltage until the load hit a certain point, then it'd just play dead. Like a switch being turned off. I've never seen a fault like it.

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