On the upside this is a good news story for old TDV6 cranks.
The passenger side would only rotate so far then no more, once i rotated the crank i could rotate that cam and continued that way till i got the timing pin to locate . I have removed the starter but havent locked the flywheel yet .
The issue is the drivers side .. i cant work out if the broken rubber centre of the cam sproket is what is making to turn so easily or if the chain has snapped and 1 cam is rotating and the other isnt , turning the sproket and looking down the oil fillet i can see 1 cam is definately not rotating..
Ive never really worked on small engines with belt driven cams all my stuff has been on marine deisels with gear driven timing and i gave up the tools 20 yrs ago so its a learning curve .. but im sure regardless you shouldnt be able to spin a cam sprocket like its the $ wheel at the casino..
Cheers Bulletman
On the upside this is a good news story for old TDV6 cranks.
I would be a bit concerned as AF also don’t include genuine bolts. We know they have prior history with selling suspension kits with non-genuine bolts that have failed on installation.
This bolt is subject to a lot of shear force.
This is only the second failure of this type that has been reported on this forum - so does seem to be a rare occurrence.
Bulletman - looking at those pictures it almost looks like a fatigue failure and not a shear failure.
When you are up to it, could you please post a good quality picture of the surface of the bolt where it failed and also one of the bolt head to see the markings on it to see if we can confirm the grade of the bolt.
If it is the right grade and was a fatigue failure, this would imply the torque is too low with not enough clamping force which then allows the head and tensioner to flex.
If it is the wrong grade, then a fatigue or shear failure is possible.
Edit: sorry for overlapping comments - I added more so move the request for a photo to this post. Cheers.
I will try and look at it again on the weekend as i have packed it all in the shed and wont be touching the car again to saturday as im away with work till late friday night..
There is alot of damage to the timing cover and about 6 teeth ripped off the belt but the rest of the belt looks new.. the break is flush with the back of the tensioner and slightly inside the oil pump housing... but im talking proberly not even .5mm in
Reguardless of what caused it its a pain but in my eyes its the better than a broken crank..
I was hoping i kept my old tensioner and belt to use to rotate the engine once i see whats waiting under the drivers side inlet manifold.. up for a new oil pump as well but in the short term hopefully i can drill out the bolt..
Fun and games for the next few weekends thats for sure.
Cheers Bulletman
Understood - it is purely self interest now why some of us are keen to understand why it failed.
The last time this failure mode was reported I don’t think the OP was keen to discuss further. Not surprising as it is a big kick in the guts.
I am one of those who is following with interest - 2.7, last cam belt change 2017, oil pump and seals provided by Ford (cannot remember if any bolts were provided), belt kit provided by Advanced Factors - all fitted by a good local independent who provided everything else. Now covered 100,000km since.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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