I have done it on a 2.7 and with what you need to remove and the time it takes to undo 3 bolts that you cant see plus line up the gear into the back of cam , body off would prolly be quicker and a hell of a lot easier.
Cheers Bulletman
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I have been advised it is necessary to remove the body on a LR4 3.0 TDV6 to access removal of the Brake Vacuum Pump.
Appreciate if someone could confirm this is factual for the 3.0L engine.
I have done it on a 2.7 and with what you need to remove and the time it takes to undo 3 bolts that you cant see plus line up the gear into the back of cam , body off would prolly be quicker and a hell of a lot easier.
Cheers Bulletman
Also, there's a whole bunch of stuff you can do while you're in there. Some of it vital.
Body off isn't as big a deal as some think. It's designed to come off after all.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I’ve helped do it on a Sport and it was remarkably quick to do. However, you really need a 2-post hoist - lift body, roll chassis out from under, do what jobs need to be done, roll back and lower body, all the while hoping it’s all going to line up again.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
The only vehicle body off i have ever helped with was a 4 door RR Classic one of my brothers owned for quite a few years.
We changed the chassis as it was very badly rusted,had done a lot of beach work before he got it.
No hoist,did it under our Mother's double carport,lots of jacks,stands, and pieces of wood,and a few weekends work for the three of us.
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SubscriberAs per Bulletman, it is better to do that job, body off, also, if you intend to keep it, I'd suggest doing the intakes, sway bar bushes, rear EAS valve block, rear cam belt and tensioner ( front too if getting close ) and fuel filter while it's all easy access, if they haven't been done recently, might be $$$ but doing them all later, body on will be a fair bit more.
Quicker if you don't have to roll the chassis out the way for lining it all up again.
If you happen to hear a rude word it's probably German.....
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						I've been told several times that to do the belts on a D4 was a body-off job but now I'm getting it done soon, have been told that it's not, by the stealer and an independent repairer! Seems like there's a lot of myths around about what is needed to do many jobs on Landies and that one certainly got me worried.
AlanH.
 ChatterBox
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
						SupporterThe 3.0L D4 is a lot harder to do than the 2.7L as the HPFP needs to be timed.
The HPFP belt on the 2.7 is actually not a bad job, as long as you aren't attached to the skin on your arms! Can prolly be done in under 3 hrs.
The 3.0L can be done body on.. But that'll depend on the mech.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks