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Thread: Fuel Pump Belt

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    just some info...

    *yes rear belt is timed.
    *if only doing rear belt, you dont need to lock the front crank pulleys or flywheel etc.
    *battery out, battery box lower out, all that plastic round there.
    *coolant cross over pipe off, or atleast disconnect from the passenger side (still need to disconnect one hose on the drivers side so the pipe will swing round to the drivers side of engine.
    *pipes, brackets bits and pieces at the back, you will see them all, includes a pipe behind the belt cover.
    *go down to your local tool shop and I'm sure you will find a mirror on a telescopic handle, prolly even a Kinchrome one.
    *you can put a paint mark on the belt and rear gear on the pump and the housing to ensure you dont move anything.
    *you wont be able to move the camshaft gear and the pump one is pretty stiff to move, so unlikely to accidently move anything.
    *when doing it, put some form of cover/padding on the engine and lay on top of it with both hands down behind there.
    *use your minds eye or jedi power and you will do it.
    *the new belt goes on before the tensioner.
    *the hardest part is getting the tensioner foot with the tab in its recessed part correctly.
    *looking with the mirror spend time to see where the tensioner foot fits in.
    *you will know when you have the tensioner in the correct spot as you can tighten the bolt initially up by hand.
    *put a bit of loctite 243 on the bolt as all you are going to achieve is a nip up, then pull the pin.
    So, a piece of cake, no probs job to do if yer lucky?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    So, a piece of cake, no probs job to do if yer lucky?
    well you know what they say... practice makes reasonable competence
    Regards
    Daz


  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    well you know what they say... practice makes reasonable competence

    Have never heard that one but it follows so it must be true.

    That plus the old one, of things go better the 2nd time around it may very well go better & if one has had a Divorce that may not be the case.

  4. #34
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    In recently trying to find a new hpfp for my 2.7D the world of crazy irrational prices never fails to surprise. With hunting you can find the pumps for something around mid $2k but not easy to find new which in some ways seems cheap for such a technological masterpiece. I also checked with Ford dealers for the price of the belt and tensioner and they want about $1100 what a joke!!! Yes that’s the hpfp belt and not the front timing belt.

  5. #35
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    Our favourite German couple did one a while back. Can't link because she says **** a few times. But he proves it's doable. Not that i doubt you, Dazz. You say it can be done then it can. The vid helps though.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    In recently trying to find a new hpfp for my 2.7D the world of crazy irrational prices never fails to surprise. With hunting you can find the pumps for something around mid $2k but not easy to find new which in some ways seems cheap for such a technological masterpiece. I also checked with Ford dealers for the price of the belt and tensioner and they want about $1100 what a joke!!! Yes that’s the hpfp belt and not the front timing belt.
    As I keep reminding 'er indoors whenever she comes home & complains about prices (on anything) This is the age of the Rip Off with Businesses trying to recoup losses made during Covid shutdowns etc. Now, whether they are justified depending on the Business is a moot point, even if they really haven't incurred those increases so it seems every Man, Woman & Dog decided to lift prices to play catchup but if they used their nouse & use this to bung prices etc up they would have kept prices low until the situation had settled down & take a hit & at least may still have a viable business.

    I know,easy to say but why not. Do I perchance live in Cloud Cuckoo Land?

    As I have said for years "Anything with a Part No will always cost more because it seems to make that item SPECIAL."

    I rest my case M'lud.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Our favourite German couple did one a while back. Can't link because she says **** a few times. But he proves it's doable. Not that i doubt you, Dazz. You say it can be done then it can. The vid helps though.
    HELP! I have tried to say**** but for some reason it tangles my tongue up.

    However when I say **** it does the same. Weird or what?

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    just some info...

    *yes rear belt is timed.
    *if only doing rear belt, you dont need to lock the front crank pulleys or flywheel etc.
    *battery out, battery box lower out, all that plastic round there.
    *coolant cross over pipe off, or atleast disconnect from the passenger side (still need to disconnect one hose on the drivers side so the pipe will swing round to the drivers side of engine.
    *pipes, brackets bits and pieces at the back, you will see them all, includes a pipe behind the belt cover.
    *go down to your local tool shop and I'm sure you will find a mirror on a telescopic handle, prolly even a Kinchrome one.
    *you can put a paint mark on the belt and rear gear on the pump and the housing to ensure you dont move anything.
    *you wont be able to move the camshaft gear and the pump one is pretty stiff to move, so unlikely to accidently move anything.
    *when doing it, put some form of cover/padding on the engine and lay on top of it with both hands down behind there.
    *use your minds eye or jedi power and you will do it.
    *the new belt goes on before the tensioner.
    *the hardest part is getting the tensioner foot with the tab in its recessed part correctly.
    *looking with the mirror spend time to see where the tensioner foot fits in.
    *you will know when you have the tensioner in the correct spot as you can tighten the bolt initially up by hand.
    *put a bit of loctite 243 on the bolt as all you are going to achieve is a nip up, then pull the pin.
    What's the best way to remove the old belt? When I did the belt on my Territory I chomped thru the belt with a pair of side cutters. A very slow and awkward job. Others have suggested just remove the tensioner pulley but I was concerned it would mangle the retaining bolt on the last bit of thread.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    well you know what they say... practice makes reasonable competence
    I always thought the saying was 'Practice makes perfect'. Sounds better than 'reasonable' to me...
    AlanH.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by CountOtto View Post
    What's the best way to remove the old belt? When I did the belt on my Territory I chomped thru the belt with a pair of side cutters. A very slow and awkward job. Others have suggested just remove the tensioner pulley but I was concerned it would mangle the retaining bolt on the last bit of thread.
    I have some small wire clippers which took no time to snip through and were small enough to get in the gap.

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