Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 31

Thread: ~Rich's~ D4 build

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,140
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ~Rich~ View Post
    I found the standard high beam is pretty poor in the D4 compared with my last vehicle.
    Didn't want to fork out heaps for Driving Light brackets as well as the lights themselves.
    Searched Stedi and found these replacements for the Fog lights which I never use.
    STEDI™ Boost Integrated LED Driving Lights For Type-A Fogs

    I've fitted them yesterday and found that there are 2 wires for the DRL part of the light.
    One connects up to turn on the DRL and the other connects to the indicator so it turns off when the indicator is on.
    I didn't like this feature as it flashes alternatively with the blinker so I disconnected that wire to just keep on with the DRLs.

    I know that they won't be as good as larger spotties but I'm sure they will be better than the standard High beam.
    They should punch out in front of the high beam as the spec's look similar to the Great White spotties that I have on my D3 in the same position, they don't seem to make them anymore but IIRC mine were 1 lux at 333m vs your 1 lux at 327m.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    They should punch out in front of the high beam as the spec's look similar to the Great White spotties that I have on my D3 in the same position, they don't seem to make them anymore but IIRC mine were 1 lux at 333m vs your 1 lux at 327m.

    Recommended Lux levels for safe driving are ~20-30 lux... 1 lux is enough to barely read a newspaper (its less than moonlight on a clear night)

    When choosing driving lights it pays to consider what level of lighting is needed to see beyond the reaction / braking distances.
    Given it takes 3.27 seconds to cross 100 mtrs @ 110km/h and that is the cut off point for 27.5 lux on these units you'd be easily out-driving them on the highway.

    Good at slower speeds for sure!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,070
    Total Downloaded
    0
    In comparison, 1 lux is about a good push bike light
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    In comparison, 1 lux is about a good push bike light
    Not on my bikes and the speed I went at. I was running a 1700 lumen light to light up the trails on the mountain bike at night.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,140
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Recommended Lux levels for safe driving are ~20-30 lux... 1 lux is enough to barely read a newspaper (its less than moonlight on a clear night)

    When choosing driving lights it pays to consider what level of lighting is needed to see beyond the reaction / braking distances.
    Given it takes 3.27 seconds to cross 100 mtrs @ 110km/h and that is the cut off point for 27.5 lux on these units you'd be easily out-driving them on the highway.

    Good at slower speeds for sure!
    Mine are for lower speeds mainly as I live in the burbs and when I return home from a drive in the bush in the evenings, there are still lots of cars around and I can hardly use the high beam never mind the spotties. Just this weekend I had some panicky person in a hatch back flashing their brights just because they could see my spots over the hills and must be deathly afraid of being blinded were I to crest with them still on!

    Yes, for a long time I've wondered how far I can see a kangaroo at night, but it is such a drama to find out, 1st catching a kangaroo, then tying it to a suitable tree or fence post, then pacing out the light beam length, then releasing the roo, (it is not going to be happy), then running away from the roo.

    Conversely, I have a theory that the roos, cows, etc see me coming a lot sooner now with the spotties and move out the way as I've had a lot fewer sightings since getting the spotties, the last being as I crested a hill, when two roos were in the road but looking the wrong way.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,070
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    Mine are for lower speeds mainly as I live in the burbs and when I return home from a drive in the bush in the evenings, there are still lots of cars around and I can hardly use the high beam never mind the spotties. Just this weekend I had some panicky person in a hatch back flashing their brights just because they could see my spots over the hills and must be deathly afraid of being blinded were I to crest with them still on!

    Yes, for a long time I've wondered how far I can see a kangaroo at night, but it is such a drama to find out, 1st catching a kangaroo, then tying it to a suitable tree or fence post, then pacing out the light beam length, then releasing the roo, (it is not going to be happy), then running away from the roo.

    Conversely, I have a theory that the roos, cows, etc see me coming a lot sooner now with the spotties and move out the way as I've had a lot fewer sightings since getting the spotties, the last being as I crested a hill, when two roos were in the road but looking the wrong way.
    The other way of looking at it is:

    The said kangaroo can’t hear your motor but sees your spotlights and thinks ‘oh wow the sun is coming up early today, I might hang around on the side of the road and eat grass for a bit longer’!
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW SW Slopes
    Posts
    12,030
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Then there are the ones that hide in the bushes then jump out because you're getting too close and that the well-lit path across is clear.

    A wild goat decided to race out of the scrub to beat me to get across the road, but then realising that it wasn't going to make it, skidded on all 4 legs as it emergency braked whilst turning alongisde. It would be good if roos did the same.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, SA
    Posts
    7,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    Mine are for lower speeds mainly as I live in the burbs and when I return home from a drive in the bush in the evenings, there are still lots of cars around and I can hardly use the high beam never mind the spotties. Just this weekend I had some panicky person in a hatch back flashing their brights just because they could see my spots over the hills and must be deathly afraid of being blinded were I to crest with them still on!

    Yes, for a long time I've wondered how far I can see a kangaroo at night, but it is such a drama to find out, 1st catching a kangaroo, then tying it to a suitable tree or fence post, then pacing out the light beam length, then releasing the roo, (it is not going to be happy), then running away from the roo.

    Conversely, I have a theory that the roos, cows, etc see me coming a lot sooner now with the spotties and move out the way as I've had a lot fewer sightings since getting the spotties, the last being as I crested a hill, when two roos were in the road but looking the wrong way.
    Haha

    Can make it easy for you - come over this way for a visit. Drive at Dusk onwards...

    Pretty confident a test subject or two will present for you.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,874
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ~Rich~ View Post
    I found the standard high beam is pretty poor in the D4 compared with my last vehicle.
    Didn't want to fork out heaps for Driving Light brackets as well as the lights themselves.
    Searched Stedi and found these replacements for the Fog lights which I never use.
    STEDI™ Boost Integrated LED Driving Lights For Type-A Fogs

    I've fitted them yesterday and found that there are 2 wires for the DRL part of the light.
    One connects up to turn on the DRL and the other connects to the indicator so it turns off when the indicator is on.
    I didn't like this feature as it flashes alternatively with the blinker so I disconnected that wire to just keep on with the DRLs.

    I know that they won't be as good as larger spotties but I'm sure they will be better than the standard High beam.



    So after my trip I can say that while they do improve the standard highbeam they are not a alternative to proper driving lights.
    Tombie my son hit of all the animals a goat! During the day at 2pm under blue skys. Goats are normally smarter than that. Ripped off 1/3 of the bumper but at least the 4wd was still drivable.
    2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    2,661
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by John_D4 View Post
    In comparison, 1 lux is about a good push bike light

    My StVZo compliant bike lights are between 70 and 100 lux.
    Arapiles
    2014 D4 HSE

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!