Are you stating that the engine runs for 10 minutes?
Thanks Shack!
Sorry, yes the sensor is branded Bosch which i believe should be good but wondering whether it could be a different model.
The mechanics thinks that his computer might not be the most recent model but the code he has registered is: P0336- 31 crankshaft position sensor a circuit range - performance no signal
So yeah, if the new sensor is right, then there must be some other problem but is also giving the the code for crankshaft sensor. Dont know what this means. But yeah, i m looking at whether i should leave the Bosch sensor and make sure is the right one, putting all bits back together and then towing the cart Land Rover. This sensor things is confusing because there is lots of after market brands and codes. Within this Bosch looks the same but wondering how could we make sure it is the one. Anyway, thanks a lot for your help
Are you stating that the engine runs for 10 minutes?
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
So is the new sensor behaving EXACTLY the same as the old one?
If it is, then it's likely not the problem.
There could be an issue with the wiring in the circuit.
But from memory it runs for 10 minutes then shuts off, so it doesn't sound like wiring to me, but I guess it could be.
Some OBD2 codes are pretty generic, but also pretty reliable in that it is standardized across the board.
See this:
D4 3.0 TDV6 crankshaft position sensor failure
Not anymore. We changes the crankshaft sensor and it started and lasted 10 minutes until it turned off. Pretty much what happened with the old sensor. It still gives the code for crankshaft position sensor failure. Now we cant even start it. Mechanics thinks it might have to do with the cars computer system or must be something else but we are pretty lost. Thanks
Hi Shack! Yes I did! I actually just talked to the mechanics and read it to him. I think it all sounds so similar to our situation. He said he has checked the wiring and seems fine so he is now wondering how to re-flush the ECU. He has obviously disconnected the battery and all that but wondering if there is a particular way to do this re flushing. Do you know? I could post it and ask people about it otherwise.
Thanks so much Shack. I really appreciate your effort in helping out!!!
Thanks so much. Seems like the fuel filter is all fine. THe code is the P0336-31 for crankshaft and this is why we have replaced the crankshaft sensor. However, problem still persists. Some people have talked about re-flushing the ECU. Trying to find out how to do that effectively.
I'm not entirely convinced that an ECU reflash will fix it, it was just food for thought, and it seemed to work on the car in question.
From memory the 3 ltr uses a Bosch engine ECU, they are harder to reflash than the earlier Siemens ones.
An LR place should be able to do it, a gap tool might also work but I'm not sure on that.
What I feel is possibly more likely if the ECU reflash fixed it, is that there may have been some adaptions relating to the cps that were maxed out because it was failing, they got cleared on the re flash and it entered a re learn.
I know very little about the Bosch unit so I am just guessing.
I don't even know if the cps has any adaptions, so I'll stop floating ideas now!
I've not read of anyone needing to do anything after replacing a faulty or failed TDV6 or TDV8 crankshaft position sensor, but that's not to say that the ecu has got itself into a knot about the DTC that would be cleared with a reflash. I'm reminded of my TD5 D2's ecu that had to be replaced because the dealer couldn't clear a DTC stored for a disconnected coolant temperature sensor.
Is anyone nearby with an IIDtool to try clearing all faults?
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
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