Thread: Fitted new wheel bearings, 4 weeks & ~1k km later this....

I expect a cracked boot, possibly in the bottom.

Looks like a split C.V. boot.

I had the same issue, having a look at your last pic it shows the large clamp/band not running true with the hub.

there is a locating groove on the cv hub and a ridge inside the cv boot that is about 1 cm inside the edge of the boot i.e. you push the large end of the boot past that groove so then once the band is clamped tight the inboard edge of the metal band (or zip tie as some use) is locking the cv boot ridge into the cv joint groove.

The giveaway is the splatter pattern ( CSI JohnP38 at work) being deep inside the wheel.

So just take off the band, pull boot back to see the locating groove and feel inside the cv boot for the ridge and you'll get what I mean, mine was slipped askew like yours and same result, it is very hard to hold the boot located properly in the groove while tightening the band, I actually ended up using 2 x 3mm wide zip ties and a few days later when I replaced the inner tie rod on same side and had procured a metal band I decided to leave well enough alone as it was sitting spot on and no more slime over the wheel.

Thanks All - on further investigation to see if I could reset, I found splits in both sides - I must have been less than sympathetic in my handling of them when changing the hubs

Now to decide if I tackle myself or get someone else to do it.

IMG20251109111648.jpg I had too short and too narrow zip ties other week when I 'patched' it. 4 (3mm wide) zip ties with staggered ends sat nicely.

They are holding up well, so even though I have bought couple spare metal bands (I have the proper tool) and had to get under to do the tie rod end I left them alone for now.

It was held on by a single 6mm wide cable tie b4 which would have been ok had the person paid more attention to correctly seating the cv boot. I'm sure they thought they did, crap happens.

If you run it up on couple bits of timber or ramps for bit more working clearance rather than just jacking corner up, the shaft stays in alignment with the hub and makes it easier to put the cable ties/band on as the cv boot bellows (folds) are pretty evenly spaced. When it is jacked up and A arm hanging down and/or hub turned (for better tool access) the bellows are squished on one side which is what makes it difficult to keep the boot in place on the groove as you tighten the band up.

I of course was lazy and chose to do it while wheel was off and corner jacked up (just finished changing inner tie rod end) so it took the imaginary oft desired 3rd/4th hand and inventive swearing to get it to hold still and get that first zip tie on.

I took the pic a few minutes b4 replying to this thread after having done 180k trip yesterday (first shakedown run of my new to me D3) to test hub, tie rod and wheel alignment. There is a bit of grease band left which is still there but as you can see the mechanicals are dry still so nothing escaping. I will probably end up putting the metal band on whenever I put the vehicle on ramps for something else.

When you pull the boot back, pack new grease into the bearing races all the way around until it is oozing back out as you're pushing in. The boot will probably have enough grease in the folds or you can slap a bit more on the inside of the boot if you feel like it ,(do not fill void of boot with grease, it is primarily a dust cover) as you drive the centrifugal force will get grease into the folds so in operation as the folds squeeze up its lubricated rubber on rubber rather than dry which I have no idea if it helps and don't care as my tiny little mind can only fit a little knowledge at a time.