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Thread: Buying advice for Discovery 4

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Territory motors are the 2.7L.

    For the OP,if you can't do repairs yourself,and want to risk possibly an engine failure,then it is all a very expensive lottery as Ian has said.

    The D4 can end up costing more than the vehicle is worth in repairs,over a short period of time.

    We had one for almost ten years,so i know how they roll.

    Good luck with your decision.
    Don't fit in the same hole as a 3.0? Gearbox compatibility issues?
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Don't fit in the same hole as a 3.0? Gearbox compatibility issues?
    Yes you can swap a 2.7L long with a failed 3L and its accessories and it works fine. It has been done a few times. You end up with a 2.7 TT engine so a little less grunt but they say not too notice generally speaking.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #13
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    I've thought about it a lot. I love my D3, but the D4 has all sorts of extra nice stuff. The problem is getting a D4 with 3 pedals. They don't exist except as a base model industrial in the UK.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  4. #14
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    A few things to consider
    D4 is arguably the best 4 wd available
    the rear axle load limit is a issue if towing
    the engine can die any time , fingers gets crossed for mine
    they are much cheaper then any other option so that difference can pay for considerable repairs and maintenance
    all older 4wds cost a lot to maintain, check out the cost of a set of injectors for a 200…
    Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
    Discovery 4 3.0 HSE MY13 ECB Bull bar, winch, spot lights, aux fuel tank, Kaymar rear bar, duel wheel carriers, 18 tuff ant wheels 265/65/18 BFG KO2's for play

  5. #15
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    I would only buy a D4 if i had a 2.7 long block on a stand ready to go and would fit it myself.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    I've thought about it a lot. I love my D3, but the D4 has all sorts of extra nice stuff. The problem is getting a D4 with 3 pedals. They don't exist except as a base model industrial in the UK.
    When they dropped the headrest hand grips Discos were never the same again.

  7. #17
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    Buying advice for Discovery 4

    The issues with the 3.0 has put me off progressing to the D4. The crank failures are just too random for my liking.

    I would go with either the 2.7, the 5.0, or only go with a 3.0 if it was a recently installed new replacement engine sourced from JLR. I would be very wary of a rebuilt engine.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by discomatt69 View Post
    check out the cost of a set of injectors for a 200…
    Pretty rare to need a full set,unless it has done350 to 400,000Km,and been serviced properly.

    The neighbours had one that did 360,000Km,6 yrs old,a heap of dirt road Ks,not one repair.Traded on a new one,12 months ago.
    Most of the services done by themselves,the rest done at the dealer at St George.
    Stock with just a bar and side rails.

    Their LC300 has already had the 7th injector,which is for for the DPF, needing an extra clean or something along those lines.
    It brought up a fault code.

  9. #19
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    Has anyone yet to try the cheap replacement engines from Ali Express or know anything about them.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselLSE View Post
    Look, I don't like the 32,000km gap between one of the oil changes, but there could have been an undocumented change in between. The very first thing you MUST do is arrange for an engine oil pressure test. Dead easy to do and the procedure and expected results are in the workshop manual (albeit not very clearly explained). This will tell you whether the engine has some life left in it or not.
    So i found out from the internet that the oil pressure is supposed to be:
    0.5-1 bar at idle
    1.9 bar at 2500 RPM
    3.4 bar at 3500RPM

    Is this correct? Just so I know what to check for. And assuming the oil pressure hit these numbers, the engine should be in fairly good condition?

    Cheers,
    Christian

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