Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 47

Thread: New D3 bottle jack

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Posts
    183
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by dcc49 View Post
    Had a need to use the jack that came with the car Graah - the wheel nut remover that serves as a handle for the jack is useless, it stripped the hole that goes over the flattened end of the 10mm rod well before the wheel was off the ground. So out came my trusty 6" adjustable spanner - The weight saving 10mm rod started to twist and bend - it would have troble knocking the skin off of a rice pudding!!! Lucky I had a 22mm socket and a big hammer (to knock the socket onto the jack) and a bar to turn the socket. Got me out of trouble - in the middle of nowhere with no phone reception. Hope this note saves you some agro one day

    David C
    Get yourself a hydraulic jack as mentioned and also get an extendable socket handle. I got one for about $15 and it came with two double ended sockets of 18/20 21/23mm. The D3 nuts are 22mm and the 23mm works OK but I must buy a 22mm socket. Don't rely on the scissor jack or wheel nut spanner. On a 4wd magazine test they split the wheel nut spanner enough said. regards

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    After my wheel nut incident I also bought a 22mm socket and 450mm wrench to suit.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I got a couple of attachments made that sit on top of the jack head to lock the jack into the chassis rail. Work a treat.

    But in testing these I noticed again a disturbing (to me anyway) thing that happens. As the car is raised the jack tilts towards the opposite side of the car. You can see it in the picture below where the base of the jack is off the ground. The leaning to the right is just my bad photography

    I'm not an engineer but I assume this has to do with the height of the car when jacked up, which in turn means the car is levered over to the side opposite that being jacked.

    I assume this is normal but it just looks weird.


  4. #14
    300+ Guest
    That is a problem with jacks and is why trolley jacks have wheels. As you lift one part of the car it rotates slightly so the part of the chassis you are jacking on will move away from you slightly. Then you get more weight transfer to create a sideways load on the tires and before you know it there is enough movement to do this.

    I have seen some jacks have a slightly curved base so that they start off with half the foot on the ground then rock to have the other half on the ground at full height.

    This is one of the reasons you don't get under a car supported by a jack.

    Something I read about the D3 is that you have to use the supplied wheel chocks when jacking as this greatly reduces the movement. Having said that, I would expect the movement in your pic as a best cast. On anything other than hard concrete the foot will sink slightly and this will be less visible.

    Cheers, Steve

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    West Victoria
    Posts
    797
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteD3 View Post
    I got a couple of attachments made that sit on top of the jack head to lock the jack into the chassis rail. Work a treat.

    But in testing these I noticed again a disturbing (to me anyway) thing that happens. As the car is raised the jack tilts towards the opposite side of the car. You can see it in the picture below where the base of the jack is off the ground. The leaning to the right is just my bad photography

    I'm not an engineer but I assume this has to do with the height of the car when jacked up, which in turn means the car is levered over to the side opposite that being jacked.

    I assume this is normal but it just looks weird.

    All you have to do is push the jack in about an inch before you start jacking and when it is up it will sit flat.
    Neale

    85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
    89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
    93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
    96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
    04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
    09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
    12 VE II Commodore Ute DD

  6. #16
    Goose Guest

    Broken wheel nut spanner

    Quote Originally Posted by garryc View Post
    Get yourself a hydraulic jack as mentioned and also get an extendable socket handle. I got one for about $15 and it came with two double ended sockets of 18/20 21/23mm. The D3 nuts are 22mm and the 23mm works OK but I must buy a 22mm socket. Don't rely on the scissor jack or wheel nut spanner. On a 4wd magazine test they split the wheel nut spanner enough said. regards
    We also broke the wheel nut spanner. The pin used to attach the socket to the handle is counter sunk drilled at one end so the pin can be pressed into place. Unfortunately they drilled the hole too deep and it shore through when I leaned on it (no pipe used, I promise!!). Never broken a nut spanner in my life, but it is kind of important if you get a flat.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Albany, Western Australia
    Posts
    196
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteD3 View Post
    I got a couple of attachments made that sit on top of the jack head to lock the jack into the chassis rail. Work a treat.
    Any chance of a pic of the attachments? Sounds like an excellent idea. I'm also interested in the discussion about whether this unit will suffer if stored horizontal - I can remember my old man going ape at me for leaving a bottle jack flat out on the floor of the farm workshop several decades ago - he found it swimming in a small lake of oil...

    I guess the issue of fit beneath the vehicle when down on a flat could be made slightly more dubious when adding a jacking plate for stability, too. Having had one vehicle drop off a jack way back when much younger, due to soil giving way unevenly under the load, I am hesitant to not use a plate under a bottle jack base. This does mean you have to use Corgie Carrier's tip about pushing the base slightly away from you to counter-act the inevitable lean, coz you can't rely on the base pushing down into the dirt to even things up.

    D4 wheel nuts are also 22 mm, and you need a short extension to get hold of them comfortably with a socket.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse B View Post
    Any chance of a pic of the attachments? Sounds like an excellent idea. I'm also interested in the discussion about whether this unit will suffer if stored horizontal - I can remember my old man going ape at me for leaving a bottle jack flat out on the floor of the farm workshop several decades ago - he found it swimming in a small lake of oil...

    I guess the issue of fit beneath the vehicle when down on a flat could be made slightly more dubious when adding a jacking plate for stability, too. Having had one vehicle drop off a jack way back when much younger, due to soil giving way unevenly under the load, I am hesitant to not use a plate under a bottle jack base. This does mean you have to use Corgie Carrier's tip about pushing the base slightly away from you to counter-act the inevitable lean, coz you can't rely on the base pushing down into the dirt to even things up.

    D4 wheel nuts are also 22 mm, and you need a short extension to get hold of them comfortably with a socket.
    Jesse, the jack has been stored on its side in the car now for almost 2 years with no leaks. You could always put it in a plastic bag if concerned about leaks I suppose. I also carry a block of wood for a jacking plate.

    Here's the attachment.




    If I was doing this again I'd look seriously at an exhaust jack for reasons of storage and uneven ground when jacking offroad.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Albany, Western Australia
    Posts
    196
    Total Downloaded
    0
    T-riffic! Thanks for the pics, and the heads-up on jack storage. Re use of exhaust jack instead: I did wonder about this option, as it could be mighty handy in the event of burying the heavyweight beast in sand too (as per thread running parallel with this one!). But I have a hunch I've read someplace or another about not using one of these for wheel changes? Or have I crossed my wires somewhere along the way?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    4,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse B View Post
    T-riffic! Thanks for the pics, and the heads-up on jack storage. Re use of exhaust jack instead: I did wonder about this option, as it could be mighty handy in the event of burying the heavyweight beast in sand too (as per thread running parallel with this one!). But I have a hunch I've read someplace or another about not using one of these for wheel changes? Or have I crossed my wires somewhere along the way?
    My one reservation re an exhaust jack is the jacking point. I say this in ignorance as I've never used one but the compressor is adjacent the rear jacking point under a plastic guard, the compressor itself is held in place by a diecast bracket. Would the wide top of the jacking bag exert pressure on this bracket?

    Don't know.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!