Thread: Dynamic 17" wheels for disco TDV6

Steel rims always need different nuts to alloy rims. Alloy rims have holes larger than the stud, so the nut fits over the stud, taking the weight of the rim. Steel rims fit more directly on the stud, with a little bevel to fit into the much thinner rim, and the nut tightens the rim directly against the inner wheel housing.

You cannot possibly fit steel nuts to an alloy rim, and while it is possible to fit alloy nuts to a steel rim just look at them; they don't look right, and they aren't right. You will break studs through stress if you try, seen it happen before. If there are issues with steel wheels don't blame the wheels if people have not used steel nuts.

Pros of steel rims; much cheaper, and more scratch-resistant when changing tyres or just offroading. Dynamic steels are $130ea, LR 17x7 are RRP $1000ea or something crazy, aftermarket $250-$300.

Pros of alloys; look better, and are lighter. Steels can be bent back into shape if bent, but decent alloys are so strong you'd never need to do this, I've only done it to poor quality steels which then had to be replaced once we were out of the bush anyway. I wouldn't say steels are stronger than decent alloys. You can have steels powdercoated to improve looks.

On the subject of rims I am awaiting Performance Wheels' new release of BB-6 17x8s. Then I shall be selling my 19x8s with MTRs, in case there are any TDV8 or similar offroaders interested. Anyone wanting to run 265/65/17 will need a 17x8 rim to remain legal. 255/65/17 is ok on a 17x7 but check manufacturer specs, each manufacturer specifies the permitted rims for a given tyre size.

Autocraft in Geelong are also selling 17x7 alloys for a decent price.

Originally Posted by rmp

On the subject of rims I am awaiting Performance Wheels' new release of BB-6 17x8s.

Robert, why is there a new release? Have they modified the design in some way?

Originally Posted by Jamo

Robert, why is there a new release? Have they modified the design in some way?

I believe so. The wheels were available before but now they are re-released. Available early March.

Thanks.

I have six BB6 with STT's on for bush work. I noted what you said about the nuts for alloy and steel rims. The nuts that hold the BB6's on are not sleeved over the stud like the OE nuts, rather they are slightly tapered and this press the rim to the hub.

I have only had one stud shear, but the dealer replaced the hub (it's a one piece item - studs can't be indivually replace) at their expense as they couldn't prove whether they had done it with their rattle gun or whether it was the Aatermarket wheels.

I wonder even now if it is the nut system for the BB6.

I haven't had a problem since, but check wheel nut torque religously when the BB6's are on.

As long as the nuts are specifically designed for the alloy rim in question that will be fine. For steelies any steel nut is generally ok. Definitely worth checking, and budgeting for 5 x 5 nuts (yes, some spares).

I have KING brand 17x8 steel wheels and D2 steel nuts, $6 each from the local (ex) LR dealer. They have done the Adelaide to Cape York trip and other short trips without any problems

If for some reason there are two very similar entries from me, it is because my last attempt a moment ago seems to have dissapered. Trying again;
I have recently bought Dynamic steel rims, 17"/7". I have then fit Goodyear Silent Armour tyres. I bought nuts from the guys at Dynamic. Specs on all as follows:
17"/7" steel rims have a rim offset of +30, vice the +53 of the LR alloy rims (18"/8").
Silent Armour are 265/70R17/112R vice the Wrangler HP AW that LR supplies (255/60R18/112V). Note, Overall diameter of the SA tyres is 802mm, vice the 763mm of the HP AW tyres. Gives an allowable +39mm. However, I have noticed that on full lock the inside edge of the SA front tyres is just kissing a metal protubance on the rear of the wheel arch (when suspension is at normal road height) but when I did a U-turn on a busy road (so accelerate a bit heavier) there was a definate making contact noise. My advice - do not get tyres with an OD any bigger than 802mm.
I bought nuts from Dynamic, at $1.20 each. Specs are DNUT 14mm by 1.5mm by 21mm hex open end bulge 139-1. The other posts clearly state the difference between nuts for steel wheels and ones for alloys.
For new folk like me, I will also add some extra information that I wish I'd been told earlier (before I found this wonderful resource). I have checked all the above details against the Australian Design Rules to ensure I did not exceed the limits of modifying my vehicle to the point where I would need special permission from my MVA. The wheels and tyres are clased as a 'minor modification', and I was able to check this before I applied to the NT MVA on the following web site:
http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roa...sb_06ncop.aspx
This is the Vehicle Standards Bulletin number 14 - the National Code of Practice for light vehicle (less than 4.5t GVM) construction and Modifications (VSB-14). This has been endorsed by all states and territory authorities responsible for vehicle standards and the registration for road use. That said, you would still need to chek with with their registration authorites anyway. I used a form VS32 - Vehicle Modifications here in the Northern Teritory. That said, while I have received a verbal no worries, I am yet to see a formal response.D3 with Dynamic 17-7 steel rims and Goodyear Silent Armour tyres.jpg

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