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Thread: Spot to mount Air Compressor?

  1. #31
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    Try this mob, they seem to have an reducer: -

    TubeFit Industrial Products - National Customer Service 1800 777 299

  2. #32
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    Thanks smwilk,
    Great site a few things cheaper than elsewhere.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    Same would be true if you off road a lot or adjust the suspension when you go into car parks.
    Haven't noticed the poms having a lot of problems in their climate.

    Time will tell I suppose but I don't intend to use it a lot anyway.
    I should have been precise with my statement - the air is dried as it goes into the tank, then the drier is dried as the air leaves the tank. Anyway, I couldn't imagine it would be a problem in a dry climate.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  4. #34
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    CaverD3, ended up finding the reducer at a local supplier for $5. They are manufactured and distributed by the following: -

    Welcome To Industrial Fittings Sales

    Installation completed last night in about 10 mins, all good. Did you use teflon tape on the tank thread? I didn't and no leaks so far.

    Once again thanks, you have saved me the cost of a compressor!

  5. #35
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    I used tape, a good precaution as the air is at 230psi and if it leaks your tank drains and the compressor works harder.

    What regulator did you use?

  6. #36
    Disco3z Guest
    Hi Guys comining in late on the thread but wanted to say i have gone with the T piece concept in the main line to the tank but more for flexibility.

    The idea is that if I damage the Tank or the line bursts (which I have splicers for) or for any other compressor related problems in which the suspension hieght drops while off road; I can use the ARB compressor mounted as most everyone elses, to pump the suspension back up.

    I'm no expert but it works for me, although yet to be tested in the field.

    Cheers
    JZ

  7. #37
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    I think that attaching another compressor may not work as the LR compressor has a temp sensor, a pressure sensor and a secondary air tank as part of the compressor unit.
    Interesting to see if it does still work?

  8. #38
    Disco3z Guest

    More food for thought, thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    I think that attaching another compressor may not work as the LR compressor has a temp sensor, a pressure sensor and a secondary air tank as part of the compressor unit.
    Interesting to see if it does still work?
    Thanks for the thoughts. My idea was, probably not as well thought out as yours. the idea i'm working on is that if the tank runs at 210PSI and the ARB can put out 180PSI, with a pressure shut off. that then in and emergency I would be able to, either cut into the main line from the tank to the compresssor unit to simply add some lift to the airbags. I had not thought that the aircompressor would have any kind of failsafe that would prevent this.

    I have the fittings and when I get my rig back and yank off the sliders i'll have to do some tests.

    if this does not work, from this section of line, what about a complete bypass of the compressor to get the rig aired up, should such an emergency require?

    Hey by the way, one of the LR instructors, who's worked all over the planet with LR has told me that he's seen 4 Disco 3's end up with the airline from the tank to the compressor burn through and bleed the system, to the point that the rig ends up all the way down on it's stoppers, with no way to get it back up.

    He said the airline must have burned through because of all the mud caked on and around them and the Catalytic converter - loads of heat for sure. At his sugestion and some other second hand advice, I ran a bit of heater hose over the line to act as an insulator as well as bought a couple in-line adapters should the hose ever be cut or burned through. Even with that plastic cover on there, it can get packed with mud.

    Cheers
    JZ

  9. #39
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    You could try unplugging the power lead from the compressor leaving the sensor leads connected. Then trying to attach the ARB compressor, I would try with T piece so the ARB pressurises the line to the LR compressor.
    What size is the main tube into the tank? Will quick connects work? If your idea works one could just cut in an emergency and put a T piece in with line to the comp.
    I think I can get hold of an old compressor to take apart.

  10. #40
    Disco3z Guest

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by CaverD3 View Post
    You could try unplugging the power lead from the compressor leaving the sensor leads connected. Then trying to attach the ARB compressor, I would try with T piece so the ARB pressurises the line to the LR compressor.
    What size is the main tube into the tank? Will quick connects work? If your idea works one could just cut in an emergency and put a T piece in with line to the comp.
    I think I can get hold of an old compressor to take apart.

    The main line to the stock D3 tank is 1/4 inch, about 6 mil, just like airbrake line on road trains. Note I may be speaking out of turn with road trains, cause here the big rigs use it. I should proibably point out that the couplers aree 1/4 inch.

    So yes quick connects work and then with the quick connect T I attach a screw in valve, just like a tire valve stem. The same but it screws in so it axcts like a tire would.

    Was at LR dealer today and spoike with the mechanic, he think it should work, but said he would check hi manuals better. I'm not sure if the compressor runs direct to the tank or if it goes to the valve, thingy first, before running to the tank. I won't be removing my sliders to look, too much work at the moment, but either way it should work, even if you only splice between the valve and the line splitters.

    From memory the lines run from the pump to the tank and from there to splitters/valves, etc.

    If the pump fails this metthod should work. If the height sensors bust, you are better off to carry 4 spare seensors, (You need one for each tire so i am told and they are all unique). Further more I am told that if a height sensor fails, which is more common than the pump, that you can simply replace it, but this will not clear the fault light. The mechanic said he'd check if this fault requires the system to be cleared via computer or if simply disconnecting the battery would do the trick.

    I'm not sure that the guy will actually check this out or not and i just pushed these guys to breaking point getting some stuff done via the extended warranty so i wont push, until i get them something nice to drink outside work hours, for their help. So if anyoine else knows about the height sensor warning and cleariing the system that would help.

    Cheers

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