Hi and thanks Iain, and I still have to post up the way the LED works, particularly for CBH’s benefit as it should save him from having to buy a volt meter.Quote:
Originally Posted by RangieBit
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Hi and thanks Iain, and I still have to post up the way the LED works, particularly for CBH’s benefit as it should save him from having to buy a volt meter.Quote:
Originally Posted by RangieBit
Great stuff Tim,
I was actually going to ask earlier about the different states of the LED, and then I thought that you would probably have something about that in the final cut.
I guessed right it seems.
Cheers,
Iain
P.S. I like the look of the warning sticker too. That should save a lot of issues during servicing (unless some dolt really isn't paying attention).
Thanks - never got to the PO last week. may be there today, I'll let you know.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
The instructions have a quite a few typos in them.
It may be worth to proof read before printing off.
Also My L322 has torx socket head cap screws and not single hex (allen) socket head cap screws fastening the cargo hooks.
Actually what we need is a set of user's instructions on how the 2 batteries interact, the functionality of the isolator etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Also what design consideration has been made for battery fumes (hydrogen) being discharged into a non ventilated area that contains devices such as relays that makes sparks? The same area also contains the EAS compressor which is driven by a motor that has brushes + lots of sparks.
I don't see any reference to battery models warning in the instructions - all acid batteries emit hydrogen to some extent and are prone to cause explosions if not adequately and properly ventilated.
Drill a hole if you are concerned;) I seriously doubt the bay is super air tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel
Thanks Camo and Daniel, I am well aware of the potential problem of batteries gassing.
It is not an air tight battery box and it has been used as a battery box by many RR L322 owners, including myself, for many years.
And like most, my previous battery was a flooded wet cell, an Allrounder.
If you don’t want to put your second battery in the compartment, or if you want to use a bigger battery, sit one in the rear cargo area and use the RR tire downs to hold it in place.
With any other type of isolator set up, the only time you would have a potential problem was if you were charging the cranking battery and the battery charger was faulty and the voltage exceeded the upper voltage limits of the battery.
This is not a problem with the DT90 because while you could still damage your cranking battery if you used a faulty battery charger or even if you had a runaway alternator.
But because of the intended location of the second battery in the rear, the DT90 has an Over Voltage protection feature, and will shut down to stop the battery being over charged.
If you were to use a faulty battery charger connected directly to the rear battery, then the battery could not be covered while a charger was connected, so again, there is no gassing problem.
As per my e-mail to you.
The full installation instructions are in the PROJECTS and TUTORIAL section.
The only info that is yet to be included, is how the LEDs work.
Hi Drivesafe, did you get my PM?
I'm anxious to install mine, but need the battery terminals.
Thanks
Craig
Hi Craig and I missed supplying all the kit with battery terminal clamps, but I posted them out the other day, along with the stickers.
You should receive them today or tomorrow.
Folks, I’ll have full operating details, and I might add, a hell of a lot more detail than is supplied with any other brand of isolator, in the thread tonight some time.
But in the mean time, to counter some of the “theories” being asked.
There is no way on gods earth that I am going to put a battery in a sealed compartment of my own vehicle, let alone advise others to do so.
The rear compartment, where the battery is to be mounted, has a whopping big vent that takes up most of the window self, right beside the rear window.
As such, even in a worst case scenario, any hydrogen that might be produced will be vented straight to the atmosphere of your cabin.
So there is no way you can get a build up or have an explosion.
I’ll post more on this when I have the time but those worried about any potential gas production, please have a look at your rear window shelf!
Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Thank you - asked the question and got the response.
I didn't know whether hydrogen rises or falls within air?
Either way as you have obviously considered it then that is all I ask of you.
There are a lot of recalls worldwide where car manufacturers with whole teams of expert engineers only learn of their poor designs after a couple cars in 100,000 have a problem. The question had to be asked!
I know that in RVs they never ever put the aux battery inside the cabin but always put in in a special cradle outside the cabin. I assume that there is some standard (ADR etc) that addresses the issue. I suspect that if a battery is mounted inside a vehicle cabin then a warning sign must be placed.