I have been back to the auto trans facility today and am now quite confident that the trouble is with the engine and not the auto.Quote:
Originally Posted by uteman
Car will have its umpteenth tow truck ride to a Land Rover workshop tomorrow.
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I have been back to the auto trans facility today and am now quite confident that the trouble is with the engine and not the auto.Quote:
Originally Posted by uteman
Car will have its umpteenth tow truck ride to a Land Rover workshop tomorrow.
No names will be mentioned, but another member on here has had a heap of issues with a Land Rover workshop when they were trying to diagnose an engine rattle - they didn't manage to fix it.Quote:
Originally Posted by uteman
PM sent.
Bacicat:Quote:
Originally Posted by bacicat2000
I think my car would run and hide if I tried to take it to where I believe you are referring
please let us know the outcome, hope its a good one.
Well: after advising that all was Ok with the auto that appears to be incorrect.
The engine workshop found that one of the injectors that I had re-built and tested was playing up so they fitted a new one. I also got them to boroscope the cylinders and everything internal looks ok.
Result: The engine finally runs like the day I collected the car when new.
Even the internal engine "tapping" sound has gone and that must have been injection related.
Of course the injector service people do not seem to be in a hurry to part with any of the money that I paid hoping for a good job.
It seems that we had two shudder problems. One caused by the engine whereby the engine and car would shudder at take off on a slight incline and this was engine related.
The shudder at torque convertor lock-up speed is sadly still evident so yet another ride on a flat top back to the auto shop. (Car was smiling as it loves those as it is so used to them).
I went and talked with auto repair folk and they are being good about it and prepared to face the challenge and get it right no matter the cost. Right now I am happy that at least the engine is OK
There is still a chance that I will come in under 4 months from the start of problems that started with the bad fuel and went on from there.
Just my 2 cents worth - if you spending $1000s on tranny rebuilds etc etc why not purchase a HawkEye and do some proper diagnostics while you are at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by uteman
I can't see a tranny mechanic fitting a pressure gauge and going for a drive doing much good - sounds like your mechanic is a little out of his depth in modern motor design skills.
The L322, as with most modern motor cars, has the EMS and tranny ECUs cross linked so that a "shudder" is inextricably linked through the whole drivetrain. It can result from any parameter being out of spec in the engine-tranny assembly.
With HawkEye you can monitor in real time every engine function to see if there is some issue that is causing the "shudder".
The EMS and tranny ECUs will possible also have error/fault codes logged that may disclose what the issue is or what is causing it.
Maybe some of the latter posts on this thread concerning additives might be of interest.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ml#post1745683
Garry
Daniel:Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel
Comments appreciated however I must advise that the shop in question has the most comprehensive diagnostic and testing equipment that I believe you will ever find in an automatic transmission shop in this country.
The fitting of the gauge (which in the end did not occur and I wont explain that here) was going to be a last resort check in addition to all the diagnostics.
I have faith in the shop and now that the shudder from the engine has gone with the fitting of a new injector they will no doubt have a better chance to get on top of this.
I have no knowledge of Hawkeye but I do have a Falutmate MSV2 and that has also been tried but I do believe that the equipment that the shop has is far supperior.
They have dynos with computer readout to test auto prior to installation and whilst this shudder does appear to be an issue at the moment the car is a better shop than most I have seen.
I have seen other postings where similar cars also have a shudder at lockup speed so the outcome will be of interest to others. A replacement transmission computer has been tried with the same result. Certain upgrades have been incorporated into the rebuild. I do not believe for a moment that this shop is out of their depth. The result may as I have said end up being of interest to other owners who have a shudder following transmission rebuild.I will share the outcome
More from uteman:Quote:
Originally Posted by uteman
Well here I am a few days into the 5th month since my car problems started and still do not have a car to drive.
The auto shop now feel once again that the problem is with the engine and reckon that it is misfiring again so another tow truck ride to the car service facilty will happen on Monday 10th Sept..
The auto shop rebuilt the 4th transmission and torque convertor for the car and still have shudder at lock up speed.The original change over trasnsmission that was fitted to the car is now in another vehicle with no issues whatsoever.
If anyone thinks I am over this they dont know the half of it.
I even used expletives today and do not like to do that.
Doesn't this prove that your workshop indeed does not have comprehensive diagnostic equipment or if they do then they do not know what they are doing with it?Quote:
Originally Posted by uteman
If it is the engine misfiring or something of that nature then the EMS ECU would be logging codes - even a basic $30 diagnostic BT device off eBay will show up error codes for such issues.
If you have a faultmate then you can do the diagnosis yourself - it is not rocket science! Clear all error codes and then take the truck for a 1 km drive and see what errors come up.
Also I assume that your workshop has checked all drive and suspension assemblies for loose/worn components. A shudder at TC lockup can be caused by a simple engine/transmission/prop shaft/diff mount/CV failure. Even an exhaust mount can induce an issue as you are having.
Has your workshop investigated transfer transmission components? Have you checked that the shudder still occurs at the same engine RPM and in the same gear in low range as it does in high range?
Has your workshop placed your truck on a dyno and observed all the mechanical components at the point of the shudder occurring?
As with all problems one needs to start by eliminating the most basic and working your way up the chain. It could be that your workshop may have started at the wrong end?