Sorry to dissappoint, but LR parts cheaper normally that these others, if you shop around! Especially from UK. Europe.
Sorry to dissappoint, but LR parts cheaper normally that these others, if you shop around! Especially from UK. Europe.
Hey Gav, the "Manual" procedure advises to turn the adjuster until "resistance is felt".
Normal procedures means that "resistance is felt" in turning the wheel and not "resistance is felt" in turning the adjuster? This is critical to the whole process. Likewise, repeated centering of the shoes during the adjustment procedure. The only other pertinent matter is that the shoes have sufficient thickness left in them.
"Glazed up" shoes make no difference when we are talking about these things. I can use my handbrake (and frequently do) to slow from 95 kph to 80 kph after passing a HP patrol car. As you can see even the "Manual" advises to test the handbrake efficiency at speed. Shoes are meant to be glazed - that is how they work.
My handbrake will hold the truck against low range first gear throttle application and that is how it should be. I've never replaced the shoes or any other component of the system.
Hi Gents
After replacing not only the rachet in the handbrake lever itself, but the whole assembly (everything but the handle), there was a 10% improvement only.
It is back in today for them to re-look at it.
When I said it didnt even hold against 1st gear, they said "Oh the handbrake will never hold against 1st gear".
Sounds like crap to me - can anyone else confirm that their good working handbrake will hold the car at idle in 1st gear?
Mine will happily hold car and 2t of trailer on a pretty good slope (boat ramp ect), but you can drive off with it still on - Ding Ding Ding just as you say “something not right here…”. It doesn't move at idle in D.
I’m not sure I have a good one, but it has never rolled or not held when asked.
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
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