Thread: TD6 reliability gear box

Found that ecotuning website for those interested.

Eco Tuning für Automatikgetrieben <br> Intelligente Motortuning


cheers

Originally Posted by jezza89

Why do the top workshops ( A & B ) bother rebuilding if the gearbox will still be prone to failure? Would it not be a better option to just exchange?

Exchange to what? Until Donrover made the 5L50E work in his, I don't know anyone that has converted theirs in the entire world. Now that it has been one once, watch others follow (me... ). Remember also, that this is not a straight bolt in proposition, there were mods required to fit the different box. I f you were paying someone to do the conversion it may not be financially viable.

Someone has to rebuild them, but the fundamental design flaws of the 5L40E will always lead them eventually to fail. A brand new valve body made of better material would be the best bet if rebuilding the box, it would give you the longest life, but they are really a crap box.

Lads as I said on the other post fitted the ecu ecotuning to the RR and all I can say it is a better drive than what it was, the TC locks up at between 50km & 60km and you don't get the elastic band effect when you give it some fuel, only time will tell if my money was well spend but they do say it brings fuel consumption down and is better for towing as the TC is closed very early.

Cheers Declan

The result of this is less slippage and less heat generated BUT unless the TC clutch is upraded and pressures are also , then it is just a bandaid unfortunately. The TC clutch is quite small for the torque output of the engine, really they also need a TC clutch material upgrade, or at least a multi plate conversion to last.

JC

I have an 03 model and the gearbox was done by the previous owner. Looking at the repair bill I see that a lot of gears have been changed and no mention of the valves as far as I can decipher. Has anyone fitted a manual box and if so what box?

Originally Posted by jx2mad

Has anyone fitted a manual box and if so what box?

Thought about it and done a lot of research. The 5 or 6 speed from the BMW X5 will fit, but there is a lot of extra work required to change to a manual. Fitting a clutch pedal and making the shifter linkages would be the hardest bits. The shifter is no where near where it needs to be, and as far as a clutch pedal goes, the L322 was never designed to have one. There is room for one, but it's not s 5 minute job to do - entire dash, steering column, etc would have to come out.

It is still on my list of potential options...

Well I am back to square one.

Hunting TC lockup.

Car drives beautifully, shifts smoother than ever, and locks up just fine, just that it drops out and locks up again, ALLOT.

AB automatics have advised the turbo is the issue on the engine.

The land rover independant specialist advises the trans is spotless and looks new, both inside and out, that the fluid came out black and it drove like the TC was stuffed. In the end they put in a factory OEM one, as they feel they last the longest and are smoothest. It was less than 30k's since its last fluid flush, which came out clean at that time.

SO I need to do some digging. I don't know if its the solendoid bore in the valve body, as the TC will remain locked above about 90 k's, and if you put a bit of throttle on it it will stay locked also, but then kickdown fine if you boot it. SO I would assume the bore isnt leaking as the TC would disengage no matter what speed and rev the trans out?

Could it be some sensor giving the ECU mixed idea's?

Then again it was suggested in this thread the EGR being blanked helped it and thus maybe it is something to do engine torque? Is taking the vacuum tube of the EGR valve and blocking it as well as ensuring the valve appears cleaned and closed a quick road test for a blanked EGR setup?

Well 5L50E now 2000km and running just as it should; I put in the new "Caddy V8" valve block, as is, so gearchanges, but only sometimes/some throttle positions , are a little abrupt.
The Caddy TC seems more "gutsy" ïn that it pulls stronger than the original.
Adding up my costs, new gearbox and materials/outside machining- $3700; labour??? I'd say a total of 6 days , out with old, gearbox(es) strip and exchange few parts, back in- say, $3000