Thread: Anyone had A/C leaks or issues??

The fan noise is probably the little fan that pulls air over the internal temp sensor. Mine makes a bit of noise, I have read that you can take them out and clean the dirt off them to make them quiet again. It is on my to do list.

It only seems to be heard if the AC compressor is running - run the fans with the snow flake button off and there's no noise. Temp sensor is still working at that point. And it just started with the drop in gas, I'm hoping the AC shop will have an explaination for me this arv.

When I dismantle the dash, I should be able to see where the leak is? Need to ask them what the dye looks like.

I notice the noise on mine (fan noise) when the engine is off, but before the car goes to sleep.

I have never had the dash apart on a L322, so I don't know how visible the evaporator is.

The leak dye is green, but shows up best under UV light.

Harlie
I take it that the condenser and the compressor and clutch are working properly ?
Then check if you have a blockage or closed expansion valve by starting the A/C and checking that the thicker of the 2 refrigerant lines leading to the compressor should begin to feel cooler while the thinner line will begin to heat up.
If this is ok, check your hi/low press switch. Very rare for a evaporator in these to go ! especially considering you have no leaks. Usually it's the condenser or a fractured/leaking line.

Laurie

It has a leak Laurie. Low side pressure was bit over 30psi while running on Friday – should be 50-65.

The AC still works, it is still producing cool air just not cold, drive around on a 22 deg day and it feels fine. Noticed it struggling when it was 29 the other day and even then it was only while I was driving into the sun, on the way back with the sun behind it was fine.

The dye was put in before xmas 20 months ago, it takes this long to drop so it is a slow leak. The AC shop went over it with the UV light and can't see anything (but they can’t see the evaporator or PX valve). They are of the opinion that 95%+ of slow leaks are on the low pressure side – so from the PX valve via evaporator to compressor. He is of the opinion that a leak this slow will be hard to see on the evap too, he just rarely sees PX valves leak – resulting in their opinion it will be the evap.

You say it is not common for the evap to go on L322? Chat with LR aus parts guy on Friday, they were not sure how long it would take to get one in – they have never had /sold one in Aus…. Plenty for the P38.

That’s the good news for me. Bad – AC shop has a job/data sharing system that’s linked to the parts suppliers. It says 13.5 hrs to change the evap. After detailed reading of RAVE, I can’t see how it can be done in that time. I estimate a good 10hrs for me to dismantle and 8 to put it back together all going well. I would do it over 2 weekends, and honestly I don’t want the shop to do it, imaging driving off and finding the auto dimming mirrors or some other obscure system no longer working – good luck getting that sorted (the main harness has to come out along with all the ECUs between the back seats and the firewall).

Add to that time to change the receiver/drier.

He was just starting to put a 4 yr old commodore back together when I was in there- 2.5 day job!! The evap is the first thing fitted inside after the sound insulation when they build a car.

So I see 4 options.
1 Get a new evap ($1200 from LR aus) from UK and fit it / have the shop fit it.

2 2nd hand evap and PX valve (200 landed). Pressure test it and fit / or have the shop fit it. There are heaps of 2nd hand units not surprising.

Will be a bugger if it isn’t the evap that’s leaking after doing 1 or 2.

3 try a US stop leak product (seems to be used everywhere but Aus) that seems highly recommended. There are several products claiming to solve leaks but this one reacts with moisture and air (Hydrogen, Oxygen & Nitrogen) at the leak, which reportedly results in no adverse effects to compressor, PX, cores or lines. I think I would have the system vacced after couple months to remove the product just in case. There’s a lot of commercial AC repairers using it??
http://www.nucalgon.com/products/tsp/a-c-easyseal

4 Do nothing - Get it re-gassed every 18 months which long term will require many regases to come close to what a new evap + labour would cost. However this timefram may get shorter.

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it can work very good at filling small leaks. like moose is a tyre.
then when you get a big leak you by a full system.


stop leak systems have been pumped in by car dealerships for some time-so talk to one of these providers. The local dealer to my workshop automatically serviced tradins filling them with a oil and sealant that would clock up a system and over load the compressor.


been very luck not to have removed evaporator from these. blend door issues and heater core leaks.


Denso system TX valve has is a few year life span.
Denso block valve often leak. they also are clamped in a manifold arrangment that corrodes or the orings perish. good manufacturers put these in a place that is easy to replace.


I have replaced plenty of clutch coil and wiring-condensors and pressure switches mostly due to being clogged.

Harlie
To me it would be a no-brainer, I would definitely go the Easy Seal
Just use the Easy Dry first ! I wouldn't use it for bigger leaks, but the leak you describe just fits the bill perfectly.
Had a read on product comments and if the system is dry should have no problems. Why not in Australia probably same as US; finding small leaks is very costly to the consumer and very profitable for A/C businesses.

Laurie

Guys, I’ve posted this up to get feedback, so…

From what I read there are several different types, of those most don’t rely on reaction with moisture/atmosphere. There are plenty of stories of these other types causing clogging as they solidify all through the system.

However, I only see good stories about the product I’ve linked to – couple of it didn’t seal the leak, but no one reporting adverse issues. Do we know of anyone who has used this product?
Would it be feasible to put it in for a few weeks and then vac the entire system and recharge?

Given that my leak is very slow, I’m concerned about replacing the evap only to find it is low on gas in 2 yr time because it wasn’t the evap – especially given the history of L322 evaps. Obviously, I don’t want to put something in that turns to a nice epoxy like weld inside the compressor.