I added a seperate led light on the rear frame with a seperate switch inside, you can use it when nesessary, when reversing or as a worklight if you ate hitching a trailer at night.
After driving this car for 4 1/2 months, my only complaint is the dull reversing lights. I'm thinking about screwing a small LED work light on to the tow bar frame. Has anyone found a good solution?
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
I added a seperate led light on the rear frame with a seperate switch inside, you can use it when nesessary, when reversing or as a worklight if you ate hitching a trailer at night.
Thanks Davie. I like the idea of a separate switch. How did you put in a separate switch ? I assume from another circuit at the rear with constant power. I was looking at using the reversing circuit on the White plug for power. Will that confuse the LCM etc if I have a trailer hooked up to the black plug? Finally where did you mount the light.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Just a note, if you do wire an LED light into the original circuit there will be a flicker ever now and again (Freaks people out behind me) thats just the computer checking that the bulbs havent blown but due to the led having little resistance she lights up.
If you want to get fancy you can chuck a ballast resistor in there....but I'm not fancy
you can turn the testing off in the LCM. Turn off cold test for the reverse light - simples!
Adding a resistor will not stop the flicker, just inform the LCM that there is an extra load connected, you need to shunt the test pulse back without it getting to the LED to stop the flicker - easiest way is to use a relay to run the new LED
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
Ta, I assume I need an IID tool to tinker with the LCM? I'm getting a service thurs may get Greg Tunstall to do it. I'm looking at putting it in here, by riveting stainless or alloy plate to the to bar assembly to mount the light.
image-2108942879.jpg
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
No mate, IID won't do it...
Faultmate or, I have navcoder which is a BMW system especially for the iBus ECUs.
Your car still has the iBus but I'm not sure what is on it, they migrated systems off the iBus gradually over several years between 2006 and 2008/9. One way to find out....
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
There's a thread on FFRR where LED panels are fitted inside the existing lights.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Thanks Harlie. I'll fit the light and will have a look. I still have to do the trailer module and break controller.
Thanks Graeme. I read a thread on FFRR a while ago that involved replacing the existing light socket. It improved the light output but was hotter.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Or you can change bulbs with LED's; seem to be MUCH brighter than the original 6W halogens.
BAX9S H6W Base White 5730 SMD 6 LED CAR Dashboard Light Lamp Bulb 2 PCS | eBay
The photo doesn't do them justice, but GOOD. Left is halogen, original 6W.
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