L322 madness

**Homestar** · 14th May 2015, 02:37 PM

Ok, just had a look at the car the OP linked in. It is a locally owned and maintained vehicle, with full service history. It is in good condition both inside and out with only usual wear of the foundry finish around the seat bases, and a bit on the instrument panel. Roof lining hasn't sagged. It wasn't ready for a road test, so only static things checked. Everything I could check works. Front diff recall has been done.

That's the good news.

Now for the bad news...

I couldn't check the suspension because it had a host of active faults including all the usual suspects when a battery is on the way out - and it is. When I started the car, it cranked very slowly and just fired. Much bonging of the alarm system...

The 'Check coolant' alarm was also active and upon inspection there was only water in the cooling system. Oh, and the bonnet struts are shot - I copped a bonnet in the head while under there...

Biggest issue I found was - you guessed it - the transmission. When I first started it, I dropped it into drive and it took about 5 seconds before anything like movement happened. I went through all the service records and there is almost every service invoice, but no mention of the transmission being done. The seller (a prestige car yard) couldn't offer me any more info on this either.

The other thing that rang an alarm bell for me was the amount of KM - or lack of - it had done in the last 18 months. Only about 8,000KM working off the service book. Before that, it done around 13 to 15KKM per year. Maybe they bought another car and didn't use it much - I don't know. I didn't get the previous owners details although these would be available.

After discussions the transmission issue with the Sales guy, I asked what they wanted for it - about $22K on the road. I asked if he would take $15K for it to allow for a transmission rebuild - he wasn't impressed by that. He said he come come down to $20K. I thanked him for his time.

So, with a stuffed battery, unknown cooling system condition and suspect transmission, my recommendation would be to walk away from this one IMO.

This is all just of course my opinion and should not be relied on as a professional test of the vehicle.

Cheers - Gav.

**CSBrisie** · 14th May 2015, 05:21 PM

well done mate - great write up!!

**Blade74** · 14th May 2015, 08:09 PM

Wow Gav, such a top bloke to go have a look and report back on it.

**Homestar** · 14th May 2015, 08:20 PM

Originally Posted by Blade74

Wow Gav, such a top bloke to go have a look and report back on it.

Don't go telling everyone that - I'll end up with a reputation!

I'm happy to try and offer assistance. These vehicles can bite the unwary on the arse pretty quick as even a bad example can present well and fool someone who falls in love with the way they drive - like everyone does.

I would prefer people take their time and get the right car. After all, these early examples are now 13 years old, and although the engineering is brilliant, nothing lasts forever.

I think I've had a spanner on almost every nut and bolt on mine now, including head R&R, turbo, suspension, brakes etc so I feel I'm at least partly qualified to make an educated comment on them.

I love these vehicles to bits so any chance I get to drive one is always a good day. Remember that SWMBO drives ours everyday, whereas I'm stuck in a Captiva... Hardly seems fair to be honest as I keep the big lump on the road... (The car, not the missus...

)

**Strangerover** · 14th May 2015, 08:31 PM

Originally Posted by bacicat

Remember that SWMBO drives ours everyday, whereas I'm stuck in a Captiva... Hardly seems fair to be honest as I keep the big lump on the road... (The car, not the missus...

)

A Captiva? That qualifies as cruel and unusual punishment if there's a FFRR to be had instead!

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**Blade74** · 14th May 2015, 08:38 PM

Can't you swap? You've let her drive the RR too long and now she'll never give it up.

**Homestar** · 14th May 2015, 09:47 PM

Unfortunately the Craptiva is a company car so no choice... It and the mighty Vectra are the only non LR vehicles in our driveway.

As nice as the L322 is, I find myself more drawn to the 101 on the weekends, so I really don't drive the L322 much even though I love it.

Anyway, it's too late - she will never give it up. Originally, I was all set to buy her a brand new Mazda 3 diesel - great little car, but me and my big mouth said 'you should really drive an L322 Rangie before making up you mind'. Worst words that ever came out my mouth..

**Grumbles** · 15th May 2015, 08:18 AM

This is the thing with L322 Range Rovers. Even though they are now up to 13 years old which is old by most standards ? they still look like new. What is unsettling is that I see 2002 to 2004 L322s up for sale in the $20G to $22G bracket and in the covered distance category of 100,000 kms to 150,000 kms yet there is advice that even at that low kilometreage major, very expensive items will need replacing. Something which I don't see in the much more common equivalent larger Japanese fourbies.

Is it better as Rextheute suggested to purchase a P38 for $5G to $10G bracket or even less bur certain in the knowledge of what the major fail points are. That is the EAS components, the heater core, the blend motors, the engine cooling system and if you are really unlucky the engine top end will need refurbishing. Countering this is the low priced P38s I see advertised with rebuilt, low kilometreage engines and a solid preventative maintenance history with major componenets already attended to.

Does this mean that a low ball priced P38 with some $10G thrown at it could end up being a strong and reliable performer for the next 5 years or so for around a total $15G all up. Will it be more reliable and cheaper to own than an L322?

I wonder what happened to the OP - Mitch. Did we frighten him away? I hope not.

**Strangerover** · 15th May 2015, 08:36 AM

Grumbles, are there any major L322 items apart from the trans, compressor and airbags? Seems to me if you can negotiate the cost of a trans rebuild in your purchase price you've got a fair deal for a lot of car. The Achilles heel of the P38 is the block. Once the liners let go your up for a new one, or a rebuild with top hat liners. Not a pleasant experience, I've had one do that to me. Cost is comparable with a trans rebuild, airbags and compressor are a consumable like the L322. The P38 isn't as good off road, and has a much harsher ride. I know which one I'd pick!

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**Grumbles** · 15th May 2015, 09:31 AM

Strangerover I'll refer back to one of Bacicats earlier posts in this thread re the V8 in answer to your question.

Q - The V8's don't last as long as the TD6 before needing things replaced on the engine. Coolant issues, head and timing issues all seem fairly common once they get over 200,000KM. The TD6 doesn't seem to suffer as much.- UQ

Just for clarification I only think in terms of petrol cars and fourbies. Living in a small town of some 3 kms in diameter max there are many short trips so I don't think diesel is the answer. I see a lot of runout model diesel Mitsi Tritons have turned up here and they all do several daily school type runs of 1 to 3 kms with maybe a 100 km return trip for major shopping days to the nearest regional centre once every two/three weeks or so.

Re the ride quality. I have had two rides in a P38 but never sat in an L322 and never seen one up close. In fact I have only seen maybe a dozen max of them on the road in total. Rural Vic and Rangies are not a popular mix.

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