L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Thanks Tim. I'm very mindful of this. It must have been a terrible experience for your wife.
Mine gave a little bit of notice but no alternator warning light. Mine showed EAS failure first, then ABS and ( ! ) warning lights, and then transmission failure, with engine still running.
I have another battery that I hope will fit. First I will charge the current battery and test to see if it holds charge. I will stop and check the battery voltage every hour on the way back to Brisbane.
I also will have a charger to top up the battery if required.
Thanks for the replies.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
keep the old battery, run a rejuvinator style charger on it after checking the fluid levels (or bulging) as appropriate. when the charger is happy its done what it can test the battery, properly full load testing and not just an electronic test if it passes and electronic test (if it fails the electronic test its rooted)
this is an important diagnostic step for your vehicle. if the battery comes back OK then you have a wiring or alternator fault... I've seen an instance where the alternator main fuse was ok when it was cold but as the temp went up and the humidity down the alternators main fuse was not connecting properly.
I can conceive of a few steps between the spinny bit of your alternator and the battery that could give you a similar symptom and confirming that the battery is actually dead and not just flat will help disperse suspicion.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
The charger finished its recondition process. It's now sitting at 13.3v.
I'm now doing the other battery.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Hi again rar110, roughly, where are you and when are you going to head back home?
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
I know where Wooli is and unfortunately, the is no electronics store nearby.
I was going to suggest you try to get one of those cigarette socket type volt meters so you could keep a constant eye on your voltage.
OK then, just make sure you battery voltage does not get below 11.8v
You will probably get fault messages once it's below 12.2v just ignore them.
Your system should not fail even if the voltage gets down to 11.0v but it can take just a few minutes to discharge the battery from 11.8v to below 11.0v, so keep an eye on the voltage.
If you can get your hands on some speaker wire, you could set up a jumper lead, connecting from your battery into the cab and have your multi meter on all the time.
MAKE SURE IT IS NOT NEAR ANY SHARP EDGES!
Or if you have something with a cigarette plug on a lead, you could cut this up and use it to connect to your multi meter. You can always reconnect the lead once you are home.
No matter what you do, it is imperative that you watch the voltage.
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