They warm up reasonably fast however the oil etc would be still just warm at those distances.
Jc
G`day ,
can anyone tell me how long it takes for a TD6 to get to running temperature ?
The reason for the question is , if we had one , daily it would need to do short trips of about 3 miles round trip . The V8 rover would be at running temp during this .
On the same day at times it would do 120km trips and around once a month it would do 400km trips .
Each day it would do these 3 mile trips and i`d like to know how detrimental it would be .
Any opinion would be helpful .
If a Mod reads can you please move it to L322 , thanks
Last edited by PLR; 30th May 2016 at 03:14 PM. Reason: L322
They warm up reasonably fast however the oil etc would be still just warm at those distances.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Down the street is just under 5KM and ours doesn't fully warn up just going down the street, but is by the time it gets back.
Not sure on what long term running like you suggest would do. Maybe the first thing I'd do (and have done with mine) is to bypass the EGR - I can see even more crud being deposited in the inlet if things aren't getting hot enough, but this is just a hunch rather than anything based on fact.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Thanks ,
i guess early oil changes may be worth while ,
what is the usual recommended distance and what is a good distance ?
I was looking at the bypass kits today ,they seem cheap enough but i guess some are better , there was a stainless one but the pic of it was different to the other`s i saw . Not local though .
I also looked at alternators and starter motors , lessor know brands are quite reasonable . Not local either .
I haven`t really looked at the engine , do they have crank and or cam position sensors ?
Is there anything like the crank position sensor that can shut them down outright , not normal things like pumps ETC .
When i was looking at getting a diesel P38A it seems the only thing that can really shut them down and would be a problem in the middle of nowhere is a thing like a tps inside the injector pump but of coarse it`s mechanical electric .
The EGR bypass is just a bit of pipe with a couple of fittings welded to it so that the exhaust port can bolt on - I've got an Alisport unit, but there are plenty of others out there.
The engines are not known for causing any dramas, in all my time on the Full Fat forum, there's not much in the way of people having an issue that completely stops the engine. The injectors can play up and make it run rough, but not much else that I know of. They are a real peach of a unit and by far the best mechanical bit in these vehicles.
I service mine every 8 to 10,000KM - I think the recommended service interval is 12,000 on them. I'd say oil is cheap, but for these engines it isn't so- I buy 20 litres at a time as its a mch cheaper option than buying in 5 litre containers.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Just kink the vacum line going to the EGR valve and put a zip tie on it...no need for the blanking plates, the exhaust pressure will never overcome the spring force. You may need to check that the zip tie is still there every now and again.
No oil build up in mine since and much better boost and performance....oh and its free
Thanks ,
the zip tie sounds like a plan .
On a car around 200k is the carbon inside the egr likely to stay put or would it be better to clean it ?
Is 5W40 the correct oil ?
Is 8.8ltrs with or without a filter ?
On ebay , Nulon 5W40 full syn 20ltr $164.65 says delivered .
Does that seem a good price , if it`s the right oil ?
I may get one anyway as it would suit our sons Subaru .
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Yes, the spring is quite large, but the obstruction to flow isnt probably that great with the lower RPM of the diesel. The crud that builds up on mine has demishished greatly over time once it starts to run dry from the block, its only now covered in a very fine dusting off soot. very acceptable in my eye.
in regards to the oil...dont buy it online. 5W40 is correct. best place for oil is REPCO, they commonly have sales on and you may be able to pick up 10l of a reputable brand (not nulon) for under $100. filters you can get from the uk for $10 +postage plenty of sites for this.
Thanks ,
post or free delivery is often cheaper than the 80km round trip to our local Repco or 130km for the other local if needed .
Trouble with Repco and the likes that ive found is unless you know exactly what you need/want and you are able to tell them you take pot luck at getting the right thing and that`s after they look it up on the computer ETC .
Have got Repco brand oil before it is penrite the Repco blokes tell me .
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