Thread: Td6 Auto

I wouldn't rely on the tailgate badge.

Td6 with GM auto ended in 2006. The non electric hand brake is an easy identifier for a MY06.

At the end of 2006 the tdv8 with ZF six speed/TR was released. I think sales in Australia started in 2007.

The below FullfatRR webpage is a good summary.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post105033.html#105033

It would be benificial to see the receipt and to do some research on the place that rebuilt it...too often is horror stories of incorrectly rebuilt 5l40's that only last a few thousand ks then require another rebuild. the TD6 all come with the gm 5l40e... unfortunately.

if its a late 2005 model, chances are it has the upgraded TC lock up clutch and less prone to failure. With mine, first thing i did when i bought it was replace the TC with another heavy duty lock up clutch with improved clutch material. the poor control design the the computer allows for alot of clutch slip (up to 80kph) before full lock up. this inturn breaks down the clutch itself and that material is then passed thru the valve body on its way to the filter and in some cruel way created the clutch to slip even more buy reducing the clutch pressure ending in even more wear...what a horrible box.

but, driving styles can greatly reduce wear. was much as you can, back off the throttle and pay attention to engine RPM, you will notice when full lock up is engaged and then continue accelerating when this is done. ill get to 80kph with as much ease as possible, then back off fully an wait for the clutch to engage, then continue to 100kph with no slip from the TC. I am up to 230000ks with no sign of an issue and a max box temp of 99 degs even when towing in heavy traffic up hills.

Originally Posted by chaybra

It would be benificial to see the receipt and to do some research on the place that rebuilt it...too often is horror stories of incorrectly rebuilt 5l40's that only last a few thousand ks then require another rebuild. the TD6 all come with the gm 5l40e... unfortunately.

if its a late 2005 model, chances are it has the upgraded TC lock up clutch and less prone to failure. With mine, first thing i did when i bought it was replace the TC with another heavy duty lock up clutch with improved clutch material. the poor control design the the computer allows for alot of clutch slip (up to 80kph) before full lock up. this inturn breaks down the clutch itself and that material is then passed thru the valve body on its way to the filter and in some cruel way created the clutch to slip even more buy reducing the clutch pressure ending in even more wear...what a horrible box.

but, driving styles can greatly reduce wear. was much as you can, back off the throttle and pay attention to engine RPM, you will notice when full lock up is engaged and then continue accelerating when this is done. ill get to 80kph with as much ease as possible, then back off fully an wait for the clutch to engage, then continue to 100kph with no slip from the TC. I am up to 230000ks with no sign of an issue and a max box temp of 99 degs even when towing in heavy traffic up hills.

Thanks , it certainly helps .

Seems like i need to learn more about the Auto/TC , i have read most of what`s here and it would without doubt put many people off .

One reason i was looking at the petrol one was because of the GM but it seems the ZF has it problems too . Even the 6spd seem to have problems but that i`ve read mostly in X5s .

Could be that it just city cars as i know the the old classic ZFs in the city could have problems at around 120k ( at the time , non electric ) .

Our last classic ZF had over 300k on it when a total loss the lockup at times was odd/rough but the auto was still smooth and the tach showed the changes , they weren`t really felt .

( Both our Torqueflite and ZF4HP22 have done the following for better than 20 and 10 years respectively . )

What ever we get when we leave town it will be expected to climb around 300 meters in 4km with only having 1 km to warm and from what i`m getting , that doesn`t sound like something the GM will like too much .

I would be more concerned about the battery going flat, the l322 do draw power when sitting.

Originally Posted by PLR

Thanks , it certainly helps .

Seems like i need to learn more about the Auto/TC , i have read most of what`s here and it would without doubt put many people off .

One reason i was looking at the petrol one was because of the GM but it seems the ZF has it problems too . Even the 6spd seem to have problems but that i`ve read mostly in X5s .

Could be that it just city cars as i know the the old classic ZFs in the city could have problems at around 120k ( at the time , non electric ) .

Our last classic ZF had over 300k on it when a total loss the lockup at times was odd/rough but the auto was still smooth and the tach showed the changes , they weren`t really felt .

( Both our Torqueflite and ZF4HP22 have done the following for better than 20 and 10 years respectively . )

What ever we get when we leave town it will be expected to climb around 300 meters in 4km with only having 1 km to warm and from what i`m getting , that doesn`t sound like something the GM will like too much .

Originally Posted by chaybra

I would be more concerned about the battery going flat, the l322 do draw power when sitting.

Yes , thanks , i see your point i was actually thinking something similar when typing but other peoples thinking can be helpful .

G`day ,

who in Melbourne , specialises in GM auto rebuilds ?

I had a look at A&B automotives blurb and while the ZF side sounds very good there is no mention of the GM , they don`t even list Holden as a make in there list of vehicles .

I have read they do them but if it`s not a preference for them i doubt a good idea ?

Can any one that has had a reco tell the cost involved as a figure to explain to a seller ?

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day ,

who in Melbourne , specialises in GM auto rebuilds ?

I had a look at A&B automotives blurb and while the ZF side sounds very good there is no mention of the GM , they don`t even list Holden as a make in there list of vehicles .

I have read they do them but if it`s not a preference for them i doubt a good idea ?

Can any one that has had a reco tell the cost involved as a figure to explain to a seller ?

I havent had a rebuild done, and if i was required to do one, i would do it myself...but...I have heard of people paying upwards of 5k, not cheap unfortunately due to their reputation

Thanks ,

the only Melbourne based thing i`ve found as yet is an internet place called Trade Alley .

A 5L40-E not actually for the RR but Commodore but it says updated Sonnax brand valves and known fixes . Probably the wrong valve body .

It is $3695 + $50 delivery , says nothing about change over , yours rebuilt or core charge .

Doesn`t openly show an address and only has a 40,000 2 yrs warranty so the more i look the worse it goes .