Reply With QuoteMust be the season, mine did the same about a month ago .... cut back the cable outer, and put an electrical terminal block on it to get it open and till I replaced the cable (genuine part) on the weekend.
AT RESTI was about to show a TD5 owner the BMW 3.0 and pulled the bonnet release a ping it snapped. Leaving about /4 inch of cable exposed.
One of those days .
Master
SubscriberMust be the season, mine did the same about a month ago .... cut back the cable outer, and put an electrical terminal block on it to get it open and till I replaced the cable (genuine part) on the weekend.
Michael T
2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)
AT RESTWas it a PIA job to do or easy? I haven't looked in Rave yet.Originally Posted by rrturboD
Master
SubscriberEasy...
assuming yours broke at the release lever in the cab?
-removed the trim
-it is only a short cable, joined in engine bay, just in front of firewall (take care not to loose/drop the little joiner thingo!)
-attached wire (about 1m) to engine bay end so as I removed it into the cabin, there was a feed wire to use to pull it back in the right path...
BEFORE I installed new cable, squirted it with lithium grease till it was dripping out other end
-attached wire to engine bay end and threaded it back ... took a while to get it seated correctly in firewall, but that is only the grommet
-rejoined in engine bay
-refitted lever
as I had the grill out (headlights out for LED bulb install) I was able to test ....
Michael T
2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)
LordRover
SubscriberOnce I get over the fact that I'm driving a D2 for a change, wash and vac it, I'll bring your car back, Mario, and I'll give you a hand to change it.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
AT RESTJohn, Don't worry about the washing and vaccing, just buy it from me LOL
Cheers, Mario
LordRover
SubscriberEasy finance options??
Maybe I could slip my TD5 into it. I love the leather and the ACE.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
AT RESTWell at went pear shaped Thanks to the Damn wind GRRRR!
I managed to open the bonnet as the cable had snapped at the lever, so pulling it with pliers opened the bonnet, all was good, I disconnected the cable joiner in the engine bay and feed the new cable through, all was good.
I went back into the cabin to feed that blastard grommet through the fire wall, whilst I was doing this the bloody wind caught the bonnet and slammed it shut.
So guess what! Now I can't open the bonnet. Any idea on how I can't get the bonnet open now?
Cheers, Mario
Wizard
Sawzall
Sorry, couldn't help it.
I feel your pain though.
No idea on an L322, but on an RRC, it's not too difficult.
Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand
AT RESTFound this googling on the net, so will try and see if it woks.
Re: L322 MKIII Hood release broken
For anyone who's been having the same problem as I, I have the solution for you!
I called the local Land Rover dealer here in Nova Scotia and was told by a 'mechanic' that the best way to release the hood latch was up through the bottom. I put the RR on the hoist, stripped the plastics off the bottom, and found I could see where I wanted to go but unless my arms were 4 ft long and as thin as a coat hanger I wasn't getting anywhere.
A friend came over and we presumed we knew where the cable would run (up over the drivers side wheel arch). We popped the lining off the inside of the wheel well and then had side ways access to the engine bay. As my hand is out of commission, my friend put his left hand on the hood where the latch is, match the position on the inside with his right arm, grabbed the release mechanism and voila! The hood popped open.
If I was to do it again I would fully suggest taking the wheel off to give that extra bit of room, and it would make life a hell of a lot easier to put the lining back in.
This really was only about a 15 minute process to get the hood open. Thankfully my cable wasn't severed at all, it was just the sheathing that had frayed and so the cable was flopping around. Rerouted the cable to tighten it up and it works as good as new.
Hopefully this can help someone out, because I know I couldn't find anything on the net about getting it open!!
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