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Thread: Turns over but doesn’t start.....where do I look first

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Moorabbin, Victoria
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    Turns over but doesn’t start.....where do I look first

    Hi All,

    before I start wading through volumes of manuals I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction to begin to diagnose.

    car is a 2004 V8 L322.

    The car cranks but doesn’t fire. It’s a healthy crank and the battery is good. There is half a tank of fuel in the car. It did the same yesterday (first time) but did start after about the third attempt. The car then ran fine and I’ve used it twice since.

    I checked the cars computers with the GAP tool and no engine faults present.

    I was/am good at getting by 1980 Rangie and 1974 Mini going but they have Carbies and Points.

    Where do I start ?

    Thanks

    Darren
    Regards Darren

    1981 2dr RR - Long Gone
    1997 Tdi Disco SE5 - Just Gone
    2004 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Canberra
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    Darren
    Could be immobiliser trouble ??? Change battery in key fob in the first instance, and see if that helps.

    Laurie

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
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    Recently had a fuel pump issue in one of these like that. Eventually after a few weeks of this it completely gave up
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Canberra
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    Angry

    Darren
    If no better with new key fob battery, try testing for fuel starvation by spraying some Aerostart, if it fires but won't continue to run; than it's probably a fuel issue. Check the fuel valve on the LHF FUEL RAIL, ( engine cold just depress with a pen etc to see if any fuel present. If no joy then check fuel pump relay and fuse in the rear compartment. Check fuel filter also.

    YouTube

    If fuel system ok, then a immobiliser fault still could be the trouble ! I believe it then becomes a Dealer code-reset due to car security concerns.

    Laurie

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moorabbin, Victoria
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    Cool

    Hi All,

    update....she’s alive again.

    Thought i’d start by looking at fuel ....as I guessed it was either going to be that or ignition.

    There are some good video’s online which help the diagnostics and fuel pump replacement.

    Mine ended up being a broken fuel pump. The plastic unit that you pull out of the Fuel tank has the fuel level sender and the pump in a long plastic cage. It seems most part places would like to sell you the whole unit and not just the pump ....but there is nothing wrong with the rest of it. EBay and a few other online places will sell you the pump but I wanted one today. Ended up sourcing the pump from Burson’s. It is the OEM brand PIERBURG and it cost $500, I expect I paid to much. They could have ordered me a Bosch one which was slightly cheaper, but again it would take a few days.

    It probably takes about 3-4 hrs in total to do, I’d suggest you try and disassemble the unit to get the pump out before you source a new pump as the plastic cage becomes brittle with age and sitting in fuel all the time. You may need the whole assembly after all.

    Part of the time was spent vacuuming the large amounts of red dust that seems to accumulate around the 2 access holes in the fuel tank, I reckon I got about 1kg of bulldust. Funny thing is none of the videos I watched on line had any dust.....

    Darren
    Regards Darren

    1981 2dr RR - Long Gone
    1997 Tdi Disco SE5 - Just Gone
    2004 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto


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