Thanks for the posting, my TDV8 has almost 200,000k on it now and I'm getting a bit concerned about how long the turbos last, now at least I know how to replace it if needed.
After the wifes Range Rover 3.6 TDV8 Luxury Vogue 2008 model started leaking oil a bit of investigation revealed it to be the RHS Turbo. The common way to fix this is to drop the chassis from the Body if it were a sports but this cannot be done with a vogue. Instead the common way appears to be to be to drop the motor. With quotes of around $5,500 being the norm I thought I would have a go armed with RAVE and a plentiful tool box. With not much info out there I can say that it is possible to replace the turbo on the car but 10/10 for difficulty and I would not recommend. It was like performing key hole surgery and bolts in impossible to get to places really had me thinking.
The hoist basically paid for itself and made this job alot easier.
IMG_2992.jpg
I don't know why this picture appears to be sideways?
Disconnect the battery and remove the front RHS tyre.
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Remove the inner guard and there is also an inspection guard behind that behind the shocky. This guard could not be removed completely and hung down with maybe the brake line going through it from memory.
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From here you can remove the bash plate, catalytic converter, heat shield, Starter motor, another heat shield and unbolt the heat shield above the turbo but you can't get this one out until the turbo is removed. but is necessary to be able to get to the bolts on the manifold on top of the turbo.
IMG_2990.jpg
You can remove the inlet and outlet clean air side hoses and mounting brackets for the turbo. There is a breather pipe that needs to be unbolted so you can move it to get access to some of these bolts on the heat shield. The breather pipe and heat shield above the turbo is accessed through the small inspection hole from the inner guard. The three bolts on the top of the turbo were the most difficult bit to get undone and I ended up having to purchase a 3/8ths socket set to add to the 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch sets. The oil return seems to be a common issue but this one was clean as clean.
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With the turbo out, closer inspection revealed some play in the shaft which at 300,000 RPM is not what you want.
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To fit the new turbo was fairly easy with the most difficult part being that breather pipe. I also replaced the inter cooler hoses to turbo intake.
IMG_3024.jpg
I don't know why this picture appears to be sideways?
Don't forget the gaskets!!! and pre-lube the new turbo. An oil change and a fresh air cleaner I also ran a turbo cleaner through the fuel tank and 2,000 km later there are no sign of oil leaks. With Parts and a cracking new socket set I was in it for around $2,050 so not a bad saving. Hope this helps someone as I could find not much out there when I was researching this one.
Thanks for the posting, my TDV8 has almost 200,000k on it now and I'm getting a bit concerned about how long the turbos last, now at least I know how to replace it if needed.
What's the cooler behind the front wheel?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
On the l322 Range Rover TDV8 the cooler in front of the right front wheel is the radiator auxillary cooler, basically an addition radiator for the larger v8s. It has an air scoop from the front bumper to direct air straight over the core when driving. Hope this helps!
Unfortunately the tyre fills the radiator with mud via the exit vents.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Gillie how much oil was she leaking? Much oil coming into the intake? Do you have any pics of where the oil leak originated on the turbo?
Where did you source the turbo from?
I've just replaced rocket cover gaskets as they were leaking into where the injectors enter the head. It fills up with oil and then runs down the edge of the rocker cover etc.. uuugh.
Need to give the subframe a final clean and then monitor for other leaks. I think I still have the original RH turbo which does leak some oil into the intake - more than what I consider acceptable. So I'd be keen to see what yours looked like that made you pull the trigger.
Mick, the excess oil may also be something to do with the CCV feed to driver side turbo. See below from WSM.
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L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
You could be right Pete. I haven't replaced the oil separator and I would guess it's original.
Couple of pics below.
IMG_20200814_103213.jpgIMG_20200814_103207.jpg
Mick
How long to R/R the Camshaft Cover Gaskets ? Did you have any trouble pulling the injectors ? Would you do it again or get it done ? I replaced my Td5 head, but it was a very simple process compared to this engine ! Why I ask is I have an oil leak drivers side also! I will pull the cover plate off and see if it's the gasket or hopefully the oil separator like Pete suggested.
Did you replace or reuse the hard injector lines from the rail to the injectors ? Manual say's they should be replaced, but reading most have reused them without problem.
Laurie
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