Thread: Someone who will actually do timing guides on M62??

I did my chains and guides at 235,000 and they where still intact but very brittle. I did have a bit of a rattle for about half a second when starting from cold.

So I would think do your chains and guides at the 230.000km mark or if you noticed a rattle.

Originally Posted by FisherX

I did my chains and guides at 235,000 and they where still intact but very brittle. I did have a bit of a rattle for about half a second when starting from cold.

So I would think do your chains and guides at the 230.000km mark or if you noticed a rattle.

So far *touches lots of wood* zero rattle when cold, even at the moment at 7 deg it's silent...

Originally Posted by NUTTTR

I haven't done it yet! It's a waiting game now...

I had a poll on one of the L322 Facebook groups and it was 50/50 for guide failures... Some had big miles (200,000 miles+) with no issues... So I'm going to wait for now. I've just done an oil change and a water pump swap... There is a lot of access once all the bits are out, but it looks like such a pain in the arse!

Update from my side: The mechanic has had the Rangie this whole time - lied to me every week that it'll be "done next week"
Ordered the parts for him - because he was 'looking' at the diesel timing guides
Lent the tool from FisherX - thank you! - because he was 'going to borrow them' from a mate... Ozwide
Couldn't get the crankshaft bolt out - SO I HAD TO GO TO THE WORKSHOP TO DO IT

...I fear that when I get it back it may explode...

Just as an aside, coming from BMW world, if you change the tensioner (15min job ish) it saves the guides from being smashed. Obviously they can still break, but the root of the issue is that the tensioner flogs out and the chain slaps the guides which breaks them. Swap out the tensioner and it should be OK. Obviously no guarantees but many people have had success with it. I knew a guy with a 540 in Europe who's got 300,000miles on original guides just by changing tensioner.

Originally Posted by econti

Just as an aside, coming from BMW world, if you change the tensioner (15min job ish) it saves the guides from being smashed. Obviously they can still break, but the root of the issue is that the tensioner flogs out and the chain slaps the guides which breaks them. Swap out the tensioner and it should be OK. Obviously no guarantees but many people have had success with it. I knew a guy with a 540 in Europe who's got 300,000miles on original guides just by changing tensioner.

This + regular oil changes.

Originally Posted by econti

Just as an aside, coming from BMW world, if you change the tensioner (15min job ish) it saves the guides from being smashed.

I hope to do my tensioner this weekend. The parts were ordered from BMW but they came from Land Rover in a Land Rover box.

Tensioner part no. (supersession) 8910259
Sealing ring 07119963355

IMG_2121.jpg

I changed the tensioner today. 15 minutes my eye!

Access to the tensioner is worse than on BMW cars (from videos I've watched). In the end, I removed the air box which wasn't that easy to do. It just wouldn't unclip.

My ratchet handle even with a universal joint couldn't undo the tensioner. In the end, I borrowed a cranked Snap-On ratchet handle from a mechanic at KLR. That worked a treat with the space made by removing the air filter box.

IMG_2129.jpg

911A00F3-0DB4-4BB6-AC84-0589E1F0AA05.jpeg

I used the suggestion made by Timm (Timm's BMW Repairs and Information YouTube channel), i.e., before commencing work, with engine running, pull the fuel pump fuse and run it dry. Then after changing the tensioner, crank the engine until the oil light goes out. This builds oil pressure and gets the tensioner working before start up.



The engine sounded quieter on start but I'll check after an overnight stop.

Hint: when you get a new tensioner, DON'T press the end in. It will release the clip that locks it in the compressed position. It's easier to fit that way. Ask me how I know.

HowTo-> M60/M62 Timing chain tensioner replacement

The chain rattle on start has gone.

One thing I forgot to mention was that after reinserting the fuel pump fuse and starting the car, I had a Trans Fail Safe Prog fault and a Air Suspension Inactive fault. I had to reset them with my GAP IID tool (which stays in the car).

Also, with the airbox out, I could see a part of the wiring loom was jammed over the edges of welded panels and compressed there by the air box. I cut a piece of door pinch weld and put that on the metal edge and under the cable. I don't know what the wiring was for.

0A8D1FE7-2CFC-4137-AA02-65DAF510017C.jpeg