Thread: DIY Disc/Pad replacement.

Ok, I'll answer my own post then since i went ahead and did it yesteday evening anyway..

Piece of cake, no real gotchas, only thing to watch is that you need a slightly odd hex bit for the screw holding the disc on. I had one in a screwdriver set that was thankfully strong enough.

Caliper bolts were a bugger to get off so needs a very long wrench or a very large hammer, but fine when you get em moving.

Quite impressed with the ridge that had developed on my front discs, looks like they take by far the majority of the punishment bringing the big bugger to a halt.

So yeah, anyone else contemplating attempting the job themselves it i'd say go right ahead, prob took me 30-45mins per corner and at $680 for the full set of parts including replacing the wear sensors it was rather more cost effective than getting a dealer to do it.

Cheers,

Al

Good work & good on you for having a go yourself.

The discs on these (and other modern cars) are quite soft compared to older cars to maximise braking efficiency. They usually need replacing every 2nd or 3rd pad change.

Originally Posted by ariddell

Ok, I'll answer my own post then since i went ahead and did it yesteday evening anyway..

Piece of cake, no real gotchas, only thing to watch is that you need a slightly odd hex bit for the screw holding the disc on. I had one in a screwdriver set that was thankfully strong enough.

Caliper bolts were a bugger to get off so needs a very long wrench or a very large hammer, but fine when you get em moving.

Quite impressed with the ridge that had developed on my front discs, looks like they take by far the majority of the punishment bringing the big bugger to a halt.

So yeah, anyone else contemplating attempting the job themselves it i'd say go right ahead, prob took me 30-45mins per corner and at $680 for the full set of parts including replacing the wear sensors it was rather more cost effective than getting a dealer to do it.

Cheers,

Al

I replaced the front pads on my td6 brakes a couple of years ago at 75k.
I imported the pads from UK - Paddocks - all 4 wheels pads cost me $120 all up.

The wear sensors were still OK at 75k.

I also noticed that the front discs were well worn and will need replacement at about 250k.

The rear pads did about 120k before needing replacement.

Mine are nearing replacement but instead of stock parts I was going to get DBA slotted rotors and EBC pads,or is that a bad idea?. Pat

I've never looked but do you have to remove the hub to replace the rotors?. Pat

Originally Posted by PAT303

I've never looked but do you have to remove the hub to replace the rotors?. Pat

I haven't investigated getting the rotors off as yet.

My experience with disc pads is that the type of conditions are far more critical than the brand of pads themselves.

On my Toyota s80 i went through 10 sets of pads over the years from genuine to cheap copies and they all lasted about the same.

With rotors the parent material will dictate their life span and at least with DBA you'll get local support and a guarantee of material used (unless they import them from China anyway!)

Let us know the price you pay and the procedure, please.

I was inspired by this thread and did my brakes on Saturday…

Originally Posted by ariddell

only thing to watch is that you need a slightly odd hex bit for the screw holding the disc on.

I’m not sure what the correct tool is but mine was easily removed with a 6mm allen key socket on the long handle. You need to be able to apply pressure to keep the key in the bolt head which I couldn’t do with a standard allen key - as ariddell says – it’s not a standard hex head. Remove that one bolt and the disk slides off, if memory is correct it was a large Phillips driver on the Disco2.

Use a long fixed driver on the caliper bolts and they should not be a problem...

An old thread but I just replaced my rotors and pads today and it's a very easy straight foward job.I used RDA rotors and pads and all up they were 680 or so dollars and like I said and easy job. Pat