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Thread: MY18+ driving light high-beam trigger

  1. #1
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    MY18+ driving light high-beam trigger

    A while ago I purchased a pair of LED driving lights, only to discover that my L405 with its Matrix headlights and with Advance Driving Beam enabled (turns off specfic high-beam LEDs that would glare oncoming traffic or traffic in front) doesn't have a usable high-beam wire to trigger a driving light relay. A module is available that connects to the HS chassis canbus but its cost is more than the cost of my lights and wiring harness so I set about building my own canbus high-beam trigger module. The trigger switches on when manual high-beam is in use but not when lights are in auto high beam or high-beam is flashed while in auto mode. Parts cost was minimal and canbus data analysis didn't take much time once I had canbus access working.
    I made brackets and temporarily fitted the lights prior to developing the module but will refit them as soon as the wiring is done. Hopefully they will be a significant improvement over the Matrix lights on country roads as the Matrix lights have very little spread. The driving lights will only require the light stalk to be pushed forwards then released to switch back from manual high-beam to auto lights when traffic approaches or when coming up behind another vehicle.
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    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  2. #2
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    Any thoughts on commercialising a version of this?
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  3. #3
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    Producing a saleable version has definitely crossed my mind.

    I'm waiting on the arrival of readily available smaller and cheaper canbus and Arduino modules which lend themselves to being mounted on a pcb along with the few components to power the relay coil so that I can design a pcb. I want a tidy pcb even for my own use to replace the current re-purposed pcb used to mount the components to convert IC signals to 12V for the relay coil.

    To use canbus data as a high beam trigger, a connection to the appropriate 2 canbus wires is required for which I used the wires at the RH head-light connector. Power and earth connections are also required.

    Edit: I expect all late model LRs use the same canbus frame ID and data for headlights.

    Edit2: Allowance has been made for a switch mounted on the module to be set to switch on the relay whenever high beam is on, regardless of whether or not the lights are in auto mode. Using this option would require the driving light switch to be used to switch off the driving lights to get ADB to work properly instead of flicking the stalk to switch to and from manual high beam.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  4. #4
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Would it be easier just to use a PIC with a built in CAN transceiver?
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    I'm not aware of those and don't know PIC either, but I didn't know how to access a canbus either a week or 2 ago. Do you have a link? (Edit - no need now)

    Connecting an Arduino to a MCP2515 CAN module is very simple providing the Arduino has all the SPI lines brought out to pins (a Pro Micro doesn't) but a processor and can module on the same pcb presumably requires less real estate.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Looks like the EOL'd them. Same as the PIC with the built in voltage reg and LIN transceiver I've been using. Quite a few Atmegas with built in CAN modules but they all need the MCP2551 transceiver like the PICs now. They'd probably be easier to drive, faster and smaller footprint, but if you're already tooled up for the MCP2515 then there's probably very little difference.

    Sorry, for some odd reason I thought you based LLAMS on PICs and were tooled up for that architecture.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  7. #7
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    The frames that I'm using only occur at 100/s with all other frames excluded by the 2515 filters, so very light work for an Arduino.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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    I saw a similar problem for a guy who had a Jaguar I-pace and wanted spotties, but no suitable mounting points on those, so had to settle for a number plate mounted light bar, and used a wireless sender, IIRC 433Hz to a relay in the high beam cct to switch the power to the LED bar.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  9. #9
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    Unfortunately the lights don't have any nearby spread to speak of, seeming to not provide much extra verge light although possibly only in comparison to the gross extra light straight ahead. The left bracket needs a tweak to allow the light to be aimed straighter ahead but once aligned, lighting down the road will be much better than the now feeble high-beam and perhaps the lighting of the verges will indeed be improved. At least now I'll see roos ahead that are already at the roadside or in the middle of the road.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  10. #10
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    Not sure about the new led spotties if you can get different patterns like the good old halogen ones, when people would fit a "pencil" beam to the right and a "flood" to the left. With the all the different led segments in the new lights I'd think they could even make a hybrid with pencil and flood segments all in the one light.
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

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