Here is picture from the article - thank you for the reference. Looks very clean.
IMG_5834.jpg
The counter-argument that I used to hear - from my father - was that if you mounted a bullbar on the chassis rails and then hit something big you'd bend the chassis and write-off the vehicle, even if there looked to be only cosmetic damage. Alternatively, don't have a bullbar and do possibly repairable damage to the bonnet and front guards ... anyway I won't be fitting one to my next car.
That said, I hear good things about the Smartbars (which appear to be the spiritual successors to the poly tube bars that people up my way use to swear by), but I don't think that they have a Discovery one.
This is actually an issue with modern vehicles and crumple zones.
The Disco is going in for remedial work in the next couple of weeks.
The smash repair bloke reckoned if it was a new Hilux/Ranger/D-Max/Colorado my minor bingle (OE bullbar, grille, plastic bumper and a slight bow in the bonnet where the crappy OE bar bent backwards into it) would be a major chassis rail straighten at a minimum and a very exxy fix.
I thought that was the point of the crush cans used to mount the bullbars on to the chassis? Or is that about stopping airbags going off?
I was interested to note that even though ARB make a winch bar for the Pajero, it doesn't come with the otherwise standard hi-lift jack points and recovery mounting points. They obviously decided the shock loading of recovery and lateral force of jacking would be too much, which is kind of scary.
As a city-dwelling bush tourist, I've long wished there was a removable bullbar option for pushing roos and scrub etc on excursions but isn't a PITA the other 90% of the time.
Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'
I think you'll find that to meet ANCAP, EUROCAP, etc the traditional ladder frame chassis has to be able to deform/be a crushable structure.
I'd guess crush cans alone aren't enough.
Re crush cans, I've always had the understanding that you don't snatch, hilift, etc off a bar with crush cans.
Which is why I would've loved to fit a TJM alloy bar to the Disco, but they don't make them anymore.
The ECB ones look boxy and bloody terrible to my eyes.
I nearly went sans bar at all, spoils the lines of the Disco, but having had some hits that would've sidelined a car without a bar I went for the insurance option.
I didn't phrase that very well. The car is a D1. Survive was meant to mean for me in it. It has been clearly demonstrated, and I have posted the vid elsewhere, that a D1 offers very little occupant protection in the case of frontal impact. A well designed roo bar offers greater protection from large animal strikes than the car on its own. And, yes, I think the car would have more chance of being repairable, if not drivable, with the ARB bar with crush cans than without it.
My son, when he owned it, rammed an embankment. $150 for crush cans seemed a cheap repair for an impact that would have seen broken lamps, bent guards and very likely the rad back into the fan.
Whether the original question about the desirability of bars, or subsequent answers, relate to the thread itself is another matter.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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