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Thread: A word of warning--

  1. #1
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    A word of warning--

    Do your maintenance! Change out ALL the hoses in the engine V.
    Cos one blown hose just cost me $20K....
    and thats a lot of XXXX...
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

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    Another issue is the way the temperature guages in these vehicles work,or don't work.
    Started with the TD5.

    Once it is close to the red,the engine is shot.

    Sure if the coolant is lost quickly it may not indicate,but in other overheating instances,it should read higher or warn the driver before the engine is destroyed.

    A 35 yr old Falcon had a better guage,we used to drive by them back in the day towing huge traiiers around out west,before they started fitting "tropical" kits to them.
    Didn't destroy a single engine,just slowed down or turned off the AC as the guage got close to the red.

    The way around this today is to fit something like an engine saver,or similar aftermarket set up.
    In the LC i have a dash mounted Ultraguage with an audible alarm,coolant set at 95 degrees.
    It works off the engine sensor,probably not as good as an engine saver in the coolant,but being audible,the alert is what the driver needs as it is difficult to watch the guages all the time.

  3. #3
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    X2 for an audible warning...
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Cos one blown hose just cost me $20K..
    and thats a lot of XXXX...
    Crikey! Sorry to hear that Pedro.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Do your maintenance! Change out ALL the hoses in the engine V.
    Cos one blown hose just cost me $20K....
    and thats a lot of XXXX...
    A word of warning--
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Do your maintenance! Change out ALL the hoses in the engine V.
    Cos one blown hose just cost me $20K....
    and thats a lot of XXXX...
    Did all mine a month ago, was warned by my tech the biggest issue on older SSDV8's was overheating due to busted cooling system components. Whilst at it also replaced the turbo oil feed o rings. As I tow a van temps can get up there when doing long uphill climbs on ot days.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Another issue is the way the temperature guages in these vehicles work,or don't work.
    Started with the TD5.

    Once it is close to the red,the engine is shot.
    Urm, no, if the gauge is at its normal position you're within the operating range of the engine, once its over that its in the overheating range, once its in the red the engine is shot.

    I've lost count of the number of people IVe had to tell that yes, now you have a new gauge that reads actual degrees if your towing and going up hill 105-110 isnt over heated its just the engine working harder.

    Other things come into account, if the coolant is low, its the wrong type or concentration or the pressure caps not holding pressure, then yes you can be overheating your engine and killing it at indicated temps as low as 105 degrees.

    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    the alert is what the driver needs as it is difficult to watch the guages all the time.
    guess you've never learnt the 7 second scan?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Urm, no, if the gauge is at its normal position you're within the operating range of the engine, once its over that its in the overheating range, once its in the red the engine is shot.

    I've lost count of the number of people IVe had to tell that yes, now you have a new gauge that reads actual degrees if your towing and going up hill 105-110 isnt over heated its just the engine working harder.

    Other things come into account, if the coolant is low, its the wrong type or concentration or the pressure caps not holding pressure, then yes you can be overheating your engine and killing it at indicated temps as low as 105 degrees.



    guess you've never learnt the 7 second scan?
    Sure,that is how they "should" work,have a look at quote below,from a post by Sierrafery.
    Seems the D2 TD5 works differently,dunno about other later LR models,i bet they are similar.

    "IMO that's how it was designed to work(based on the description from the WSM too)

    I checked the gauge operation on mine based on ECT inputs with nanocom:
    1. when the ECT reaches 40*C it goes from bottom to 1/4 and stays there up to 69*C
    2. at 70*C goes to the middle and stays there up to 119*C
    3. at 120*C goes to the red zone(i used a heat gun on the elbow where the sensor is to check that)"

    Sitting at mid range until 119 degrees,then going up into the red at 120 is not much help to anyone.
    Having a guage that will move gradually from mid range to red,as the temperature rises would be better?

    Agree,once coolant level is low or very low any guage may not be much help.

    As i said in another post,the guage in an XE/F falcon was better,we used to drive by them towing loaded trailers in central Aus,just slow down or off with the AC when the guage was getting close to the red.Didn't have any engine problems.
    Then they started to fit a "tropical kit" to them,solved the overheating issues.

    7 second scan,don't worry i keep a good eye on what is going on but i am not the only person that drives the vehicle....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus;3211037.



    guess you've never learnt the 7 second scan?
    That leaves very little time to enjoy the view of the cleared ribbon, through the windscreen, in a vehicle with twenty gauges and a computerised engine monitor.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Sitting at mid range until 119 degrees,then going up into the red at 120 is not much help to anyone.
    Having a guage that will move gradually from mid range to red,as the temperature rises would be better?
    with the coolant at the right mix and fill, the td5 should be safe to 135 degrees... (IF Im recalling it right)

    The reasoning that has always been held is with an engine working hard there were too many complaints about "overheating" and that a suddenly moving gauge was more likely to gain attention than one thats been slowly creeping up, the difference between a hardworking engine pushing 120 V 125 wasnt really noticable.

    The last line of defence for all engines is the venting of the cooling system, it takes more energy to convert liquid to steam Which is of no use in a modern alloy headed cast block engine where once the coolants boiled of the ally is so hot and willing to transfer heat into the coolant that you wind up with the leidendfrost effect stops the coolant from really effectively pulling heat out of the ally And the cast irons just sitting there pumping more heat up.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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