Thread: 113-372

G'day All,
After many problems mainly associated with either transport (car trailer) not available or no-one able to help me lift/shift chassis etc, wet weather etc etc etc etc etc, a few months had gone by with little or no progress on the chassis, so I decided whilst the wife was away up in Rockhampton Qld, I would do the job myself at home.
I purchased another good quality angle grinder and 3 cup wire brushes, 50kg's of beach sand. It took me a few hours of jacking/packing the chassis to get it up on the 'spit'.
Many hours were spent removing crud etc off the rails, needle scale gun sure makes a racket on hollow chassis rails LOL, cup wire brushes remove dirt n grime easily, but I lost count of many times I was pierced by flying pieces of wire that separated from the cup brush, some even penetrating several layers of clothing.


after several days of cleaning wire brushing etc, I 'sand blasted' the troublesome spots, it took a while as I only have a small cfm compressor, the carport at the time looked like a beach, I swept it up as best I could, but even today 2 1/2 months later sand is still visible in places LOL.
I etch primed the chassis with 2 coats of Protec etch primer, let it set for 24 hours then hit it with the first coat of 'Gloss Black',


the chassis recieved another coat of 'Gloss Black' the next day, then I left it for 2 more days before the re-assembly process begins cheers Dennis

G'day All,
The focus now was to re-assemble the chassis asap, that would free up some space in the shed, what a mess it is.
The items went back into place very easily, as everything had been cleaned/grit blasted n painted etc, in my opinion this is the only way to do a rebuild and I must stress that by saying that, I'm not knocking any other members rebuilds this is my preffered way, at the end of day one I had both front n rear springs, diff/housings in place.



now to make a heap of gaskets, I did consider making them beforehand, but given the crappy weather, I thought they could just curl up, anyway cheers Dennis

G'day All,
113-372 was now ready to accept all the nessacery items to make it a rolling chassis again. front n rear differentials had been fitted, new axle oil seals to the front housing, the 2 spindle housings had been previously set up (bearing pre-load etc) gaskets made and re-attached to the diff/housing, front axles slid in and engaged the differential wheels, stub axle and hubs refitted to the front n rear, 113-372 was starting to look like a Land Rover once more, instead of piles of painted parts in boxes




I figured at this rate I would have 113-372 in the backyard very soon, but I had to think of a way to keep the rain off though! cheers Dennis

G'day All,
The Poodle Patrol was now back on duty, they are fierce warriors LOL, anyway they look after me, giving me warning of approaching danger, 113-372 was now back on wheels and in the backyard close to the shed.


The good wife will be displeased if she see's pix of her beloved Poodles on the net looking like rag dolls

next job was to quickly make something that would keep the rain off, even though it was nice n sunny the bloody rain was never far away,, so a quick solution using what was available to me,



when the 2 tarps were tied down, it has kept the rain off, I did paint the triangle bases so they wouldn't react with the chassis paint if they did get damp etc, now to fit the front brakes, (even though this pic shows the front hub assembly fully fitted) then to make all the new brake pipes etc, anyway cheers Dennis

G'day All,
113-372 sadly needed all new brake pipes, this became patently obvious when I started to strip 113-372 down to parts back in January 2010.
All brake pipes looked suspect so they were unceromoniously cut off and dumped.
I couldn't remember how much brake pipe (bundy tube) I used when I did 'Lady' so I had to work it all out again, anyway I settled on 23' of 3/16"dia tubing (steel). Starting at the 4 way junction situated on the chassis under the floor rhs, I made the tube that runs off to the RHS front flex/hose, and at this stage I didn't have flex hoses so I machined down some 3/8" UNF bolts so they would engage the flare nut and seat thus not allowing any moisture inside, (I did this with the 3 ends of the pipes) then the run of pipe back the the rear flex hose, the most difficult section to remake is from the 4 way junction to the LHS front, as it goes rearwards then over the side and underneath up n over to the LHS front, I managed to do it without any stuff ups.
I have a 'Rigid' brand brake double flare tool and a UK brand of tubing bender, both these tools make it a damn sight easier to make a really good job of it all, it's the bends though that can be tricky, because you have to bend it the opposite way to what your seeing if that makes sense,









another important item not to forget is to fit the tube nut before you set up to flare or your in deep s*** it's never happened yet , I had custom made flex hoses made up in Maitland to the correct length, not like the generic types from some spare parts places (one size fits all, we know whats best 4 you brigade) anyway once the brake flex hoses were in place the system was sealed with a bolt, now thinking strongly about the engine in the shed anyway cheers Dennis

G'day All,
25104490F rolled out of the shed on it's cradle, it had been removed way back in January 2010 some 6 months ago, I had filled the water jacket with water to keep the seal viable in the water pump, now it was time to push out the cup plugs, I noted they were Brass and I had all intentions of replacing them with Brass types (but thats another story) with all 4 cup plugs out, I started my pressure washer and pointed the nozzle inside the block, the filth and debris that came out was multi-coloured to say the least. The large redundant plug and the one of the smaller core plugs was also removed as they looked suspect with corrosion visible on the outside.
I had a small magnet to catch solid metal debris and I caught plenty of fish LOL, it took some time before the water starting flowing clear. The water pump had been placed in a large plastic bucket while the engine had it's rear main bearing seal replaced.




After the rear main bearing seal had been replaced, the only job I don't do I removed the Timing case cover to replace the seal, whilst it was down I decided to do a RAEME job on it, like most 4 cyl engines had done during their service life, by removing the rivets and tapping the holes 3/16" Whitworth, the inside of the engine was very clean, no sludge.
After the 8 rivets had been punched out and retapped, I grit blasted the cover and painted it with Hi-temp engine enamel, the sump was painted Gloss Black








my next focus was to refurbish the crankshaft pulley, as it had a groove in it from the seal, so into the shed to measure it and hopefully be able to get a 'speedi-sleeve' well thats the bit for now, cheers Dennis

G'day All,
The transmission had been reassembled and fitted to the chassis, it now was time for the engine to be mated with the transmission. I gathered the bits needed for my o/head lifting frame (it's kept in a dis-assembled state because I live on a compact block), the good wife was home to help me stand it up once assembled, wheel engine underneath, connect chain, hang chain block and it's in . The engine was painted before re-assembly of clutch/flywheel etc etc.


note the long studs x 4 these help align engine/transmission, when located and secured with a few nuts remove long studs and reset the 4 std studs, makes life a lot easier.
Now the engine was insitu, I had to make a core plug, the core plug I bought was too small to say the least, it rattled in the hole, it was supposed to be 1" x 16tpi, I used my 1' x 16tpi Conduit tap/s to re-establish the thread, and as I said the core plug rattled in the hole.
So I set about making one from Brass stock, note in next pic engine wasn't painted!!


the brass stock machined down to size, 16 tpi cut on the lathe, this pic shows under cutting of the thread, as I wanted to try it for size in the engine block, I marked the brass stock against No 1 jaw and removed it, to my horror it was too big!! thankfully I had marked it against No 1 jaw, but this now meant I had to chase the thread by hand, anyway to cut a long/boring story short, I managed to pick up the thread and by turning the chuck by hand I finished off the job and it did engage the thread in the block firmly, I was releived


in this pic you can see that the alloy plug is too small


finished and it doesn't leak, but as luck would have it, the steel welsh plug underneath it does leak, I tried to get Brass type welsh plugs but couldn't find any, not even in the UK, I still have 2 Brass ones I removed which didn't deform, so methinks one wet day in the not too distant future I will turn up a mandrel and resize the original Brass plugs, well thats the game plan at this stage

next step the crankshaft pulley, not the one pictured in pic 1 anyway cheers Dennis

G'day All,
The crankshaft pulley had a wear mark on it, so the story is, if you can feel it with your fingernail or basically see it (the wear mark) it will leak oil gauranteed, well mine was no exception it had a nice neat line.
I rang around seveal bearing suppliers to be told many stories about all sorts of things, I had miked it up at 1.915, one bloke had the temerity to tell me that the miked up size was on the extreme limit of the sleeve and it would split when fitted, so I went elsewhere, pricey little items at $81.00, well double row c/shaft pulleys aren't exzctly at every corner milk bar either.
The first problem I noticed was that the tool to fit the sleeve was going to be way too short , so I had a scab under the lathe (they seem to accumulate all sorts of items LOL) and I found a distance piece (in one piece I might add) so I put it in the lathe and bored it to clear the pulley's O/dia. I then needed to know how far to push the sleeve on, so I painted the inside of the pulley with never sieze (cleaned out the keyway first) and sprayed the pulley with WD40, then slipped it into place, the WD40 left a lovely surface mark where the seal was going to run, so armed with this information I set about pressing the sleeve into place.
the problem?? you can see the tool isn't long enough




next in my sights was to order the wiring loom that runs through the chassis, so I can fit the tub asap after painting anyway cheers Dennis
**this isn't too boring is it??