Thread: Technical resources for Series 3 Military LR

G'day Shaunmax

That looks like a very tidy and complete Series 3 2.6 litre 6 cylinder complete down to the chain/tool box on the front.

They had a Landrover overhead inlet,side exhaust valve engine,with a syncro 4speed landrover gearbox.the clutch problem would possibly be a failed clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder,the other possibility would that the clutch activating yolk has broken or dislodged (inside bellhousing) the 2.6 litre motor is a little thirsty in the fuel dept.

The other problem with the 2.6 is that they are hard to adjust the rear exhaust valves and are often not done, this leads to burnt No 5 or 6 exhaust valves,the distributer problem could be coil related or the power to the coil from the ignition switch,I am a long time Landrover owner and have Series 2a & 3 as well as a Range Rover and a Discovery 1

I am only to happy to help and advise.

By mil spec dizzy and points your mech means it has a bosch dizzy, points and condenser all s111 army 2.6 had them. They were supposed to be more reliable than lucus
you will probably find the wiring is all over the place everybody who owned it before you will have added or taken something off

Welcome to the forum.
Pop over to the REMLR site and have a look. There's bound to be some interesting info there.
It's good to see ex-army SIII's still with the original motor. I would expect a lot have been Holdenised by now.

Originally Posted by UncleHo

G'day Shaunmax

That looks like a very tidy and complete Series 3 2.6 litre 6 cylinder complete down to the chain/tool box on the front.

They had a Landrover overhead inlet,side exhaust valve engine,with a syncro 4speed landrover gearbox.the clutch problem would possibly be a failed clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder,the other possibility would that the clutch activating yolk has broken or dislodged (inside bellhousing) the 2.6 litre motor is a little thirsty in the fuel dept.

The other problem with the 2.6 is that they are hard to adjust the rear exhaust valves and are often not done, this leads to burnt No 5 or 6 exhaust valves,the distributer problem could be coil related or the power to the coil from the ignition switch,I am a long time Landrover owner and have Series 2a & 3 as well as a Range Rover and a Discovery 1

I am only to happy to help and advise.

Thanks for the feedback UncleHo - An original example was what I was looking for, just didnt think I would have to travel up from sydney to cairns to get it! Says 40oddk km's on clock but i would be surprised if thats the case, we'll soon see. I'm hoping to take it back to the chassis and start from there, i'm sure it will be a long road but up for the challenge. I have been inspired by a few of the forum posts here.

Originally Posted by THE BOOGER

By mil spec dizzy and points your mech means it has a bosch dizzy, points and condenser all s111 army 2.6 had them. They were supposed to be more reliable than lucus
you will probably find the wiring is all over the place everybody who owned it before you will have added or taken something off

Cheers Booger, my mechanic said there was only two condensers in australia for that dizzy! (well that was the feedback he got anyway) surely cant be right?

RE wiring - I'll have a good look at condition but may look at replacing the loom - on the face of it there doesnt seem to be much out of the ordinary fitted other than the two spots on the front...but I havent had a really good look yet i must admit

The bosch dizzy is from a 6 cylinder torana cant remember the number but it should be on the REMLR site I would be surprized if only 2 condensors fit I have used vw rotor in mine no probs. The points rotor and condenser can be bought new still so should not be a problem getting spark or you can go electronic I have still looks original but no points to worry about

Hi Shaunmax,

I'm in Sydney and have parts and advice available. PM me if you need anything.

cookey

Aircraft landing lights were popular back in the Sixties and Seventies. I had them on my car as they were much cheaper than anything else.

I had some in the garage until recently when they went into the bin.

You should still be able to get the sealed insert, if I recall correctly, they were 100w - two of them (with the rest of the electrical load) used more than the alternators of the time could produce so they'd flatten the battery with prolonged use.

Yup! I will agree with P38arover on that one,those lights did more to destroy alternators than anything else,if you want to fit driving lights,2x55 watt quartz Iodine lights would be plenty,I would also suggest that you fit them up through a relay,also fit a relay to your headlights,as all the power to the lights goes via the switch which in turn results in massive voltage drop and poor lights,Lucas lighting switches were a weak area in the 60/70's you can overcome this by fitting a "New Era" brand (Australian made) double relay as I have done to mine and my Range Rover, quite easy to do the New Era is a double fused relay so no problems there, then just use a Narva mini relay (little black 20mm cube type) for your fog/driving lights,but,you will notice a vast improvement in your lights after just fitting the relay.



PM me if you want further details.