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Thread: Battery problem?

  1. 28th December 2022, 05:16 AM #31
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Being lithium I'm sure it has a BMS,,

    can I access it??


    No...


    I put a meter on the connected batts this morning,( dont ask... ;( )
    the Victron software was around ONE volt higher than the meter..

    The cable running from the controller to the batts is the same from the roof panels to the controller( and NOT upgradable... no point the Victron wont accept bigger cable)
    5mm external Dia..

    cable run from controller to batts?
    maybe 4m ??

    waiting on Mitre10 to open, need longer M8 bolts on the batt terminals,

    Bought a Victron BMV700, probably be 3 weeks before I can get it installed though...
    What controller are you using?

    While ever there is a difference especially that much in the controller to actual, there will be problems.

    Test the voltage at night when there is no solar to see if there still is a difference in the voltages from actual the to softwate.

    You can run bigger wiring, just bare it back at the connection. Or the better alternative to that .
    Bring the wiring of it the controller just long enough to nearly terminate at a power stud. (Google Jay car power stud). Then run a set of wires to each of the batteries individually from there from at least 6mm.
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  2. 28th December 2022, 06:25 AM #32
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    The biggest problems I've noticed with wiring involving voltage drops is that the installers run cables that are too small for the distance and current required, or they run a nice big positive cable but a tiny little negative cable, or even worse connect the negative cable to a metal frame/chassis/whatever to avoid running negative cables at all!
    The frame/chassis ground return is one of the biggest causes of grief due to dissimilar metals involved and corrosion of the connections.
    The other source of grief is the fuseboxes that only connect the positive cables and provide nowhere for the negative cables to terminate. This results in ground/negative connections that are anything from bolt holding a lot of eye connectors or a tek screw into a piece of metal holding the eye terminals. I've even seen a van with the ground screw connection into a piece of wood!
    A lot of these postive only fuseboxes also have a LED that comes on when the fuse is blown, what they don't tell you is that the circuit to light the LED also continues to carry current to the faulty appliance or wiring!
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  3. 28th December 2022, 08:55 AM #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    Has the battery manufacturer offer technical support……..

    Squinting at the pics are the batteries iTech World??
    Yep, 3 x 200AH, and of course they have---
    anytime after the 3rd of Jan...


    checking at night is a great idea,, why didnt I read this last night..... oh yea flat batt in the laptop..



    No fuses in this baby!! push button resettable breakers!!
    I suppose at some stage today I will crawl under and look at cables, earth points and sizing.





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  4. 28th December 2022, 09:40 AM #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by oka374 View Post
    The biggest problems I've noticed with wiring involving voltage drops is that the installers run cables that are too small for the distance and current required, or they run a nice big positive cable but a tiny little negative cable, or even worse connect the negative cable to a metal frame/chassis/whatever to avoid running negative cables at all!
    Not to mention the 'pretend' copper cables often used.
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  5. 28th December 2022, 09:48 AM #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Yep, 3 x 200AH, and of course they have---
    anytime after the 3rd of Jan...


    checking at night is a great idea,, why didnt I read this last night..... oh yea flat batt in the laptop..



    No fuses in this baby!! push button resettable breakers!!
    I suppose at some stage today I will crawl under and look at cables, earth points and sizing.





    12.9 at sparrow fart this morning
    Why are there no bootlace crimps on the MPPT controller connections?
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  6. 28th December 2022, 09:57 AM #36
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    Hi again Pedro and what is the current output of your battery charger and are you charging all 3 batteries at once?

    Also where exactly is your battery monitor connected to your batteries?

    For Land Rover Specific Dual Battery Systems and Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kits,
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  7. 28th December 2022, 12:00 PM #37
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    only 7 or 8 amps.. the charger will do double that,, but it needs to be plugged into a wall,,
    The genny was only run for around 4 hours just on the rear two batts,

    I just bought a Victron BMV 700, but its still in the box.

    The solar controller is 5.2meters of cable away from two of the batts.

    Batt Voltage now is 13.12.
    Yield so far today is 1.04KWH
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  8. 28th December 2022, 12:46 PM #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Why are there no bootlace crimps on the MPPT controller connections?
    I'm guessing because Pedro prefers moccasins, or fluffy slippers if he is relaxing around camp.
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  9. 28th December 2022, 01:00 PM #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by RANDLOVER View Post
    I'm guessing because Pedro prefers moccasins, or fluffy slippers if he is relaxing around camp.
    I Always use bootlace crimps on those sort of terminations, it gives you a much better/securer connection
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  10. 28th December 2022, 04:54 PM #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    only 7 or 8 amps.. the charger will do double that,, but it needs to be plugged into a wall,,
    The genny was only run for around 4 hours just on the rear two batts,
    At 7 or 8 amp, going how much you can draw down that brand of battery, you will need around 30 hours of constant charging, if the batteries were near the cut-out level.

    For Land Rover Specific Dual Battery Systems and Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kits,
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