MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
Hi Loanrangie and first off, I have zero first hand experience with using lithium batteries under the bonnet. I always mount my lithium batteries in the boot.
I have seen quite a few posts in different places, where people have had problems with lithium batteries when mounted under the bonnet ( Usually short lifespan ) but I have read far, far more posts where others have had no issues at all.
So in my case it is each unto his own.
But as pointed out in this thread, the D3 and D4 auxiliary battery compartment on the drivers side, does give a fair amount of protection for any battery against the harsh engine bay environment.
Although I now know of quite a few people who have mounted a lithium battery on my tray in front of the cranking battery and all seams well.
If Tombie is reading this, I hope he can chime in and give us his experience with lithium batteries mounted in both locations.
One thing though, finding a lithium battery with a low enough height clearance to be able to put the cover back on the auxiliary battery compartment is the main challenge.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Hi Loanranger, SSB have some low profile lithium batteries, and one of their 100Ah batteries, V-LFP-12-100S is only 4mm longer and 6mm higher than an Optima Yellowtop and should fit.
I have no idea whether these are any good or not as I have had no experience with them.
The specs are not shown but as they are a cranking battery, charging currents should not be a problem.
On the subject of temperature, over 45 years ago the Jaguar XJ12 had very high under bonnet readings. The battery was mounted under there with its very own fan, which seemed like a good idea. Of course, being Jaguar, the fan would fail, followed in short order by the battery. But it’s an idea.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Tim, you have said before that my SC-80 would be ideal to use on my OKA. I am going to need to get new batteries for the “house “ before I go anywhere in the thing. Ideally I’d like to keep one battery as lead acid for potential jump starts ( OKA has places for four in its standard mount, and plenty of room elsewhere for more if required) but I would consider LiPo for the other stuff. Can the SC-80 charge all of this? OKA only has a dumb two wire alternator, and an MPPT solar regulator. Currently the two systems are independent, but that means that the house batteries only charge when it’s sunny.
if I can do this could you perhaps give me a rough wiring diagram ?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I used to be able to work this stuff out, but I'm finding the drugs are playing games with my reasoning.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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