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Thread: Bee-utey help please pics included

  1. #1
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Bee-utey help please pics included

    Hi Bee-utey, I managed to re route all my hoses from underneath the upper air intake banana and drilled the webbing and fed the vapour hoses through the webbing and connected the injectors to these above the intake.
    On running diagnostics I tried auto calibration again, and this time I get the message in pic 1. STABILIZE UP , I checked documentation but can't find what this means or how to fix it.


    Here are other readings I got from The ECU.
    PETROL MAP


    LPG MAP






    regards,
    Mario


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    missing words are "stabilise (engine speed) to 2700 - 3300 rpm (at no load)"

    set the reducer to 1.4 bar (pic 4)

    set the reducer temp for changeover to 40C

    you have a 20% difference in injection time between banks 1 & 2, run the prtrol for a while and see if it evens out.

  3. #3
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    missing words are "stabilise (engine speed) to 2700 - 3300 rpm (at no load)"

    set the reducer to 1.4 bar (pic 4)

    set the reducer temp for changeover to 40C

    you have a 20% difference in injection time between banks 1 & 2, run the prtrol for a while and see if it evens out.
    I found today, the right hand bank gas supply hose to injectors had a very bad kink, it was adversly choked gas supply to those injectors on a bank.


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    Hi,

    I have a very similar settings on my 2001 RR Thor engine currently, but still fighting: when hardly accelerating, the ECU switch back to petrol ( another issue is, that there is too big difference between petrol and LPG fuel consumption, but I would like to fine tune it later, because I am afraid to run on lean mix ... )

    here are the pics about the settings:

    change_over_aulro.jpg

    map.jpg

    modify_carb.jpg

    I saw, that I have lower pressure on reducer, only 0.95 bar instead of 1.1 ( or 1.4 as suggested), and the timing difference between petrol and lpg is a bit higher. the map is a result of autocalibration.
    Should I adjust the pressure on reducer? could be the big timing difference because of this?
    Roverlord, would be possible to post your current settings?

    thanks

    (as you can see, the o2 sensors are not in use, I am using one reducer and also one filter with two output hose )

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by pooh961 View Post
    Hi,

    I have a very similar settings on my 2001 RR Thor engine currently, but still fighting1) when hardly accelerating, the ECU switch back to petrol ( another issue is, that there is too big difference between petrol and LPG fuel consumption, but I would like to fine tune it later, because I am afraid to run on lean mix ... )

    here are the pics about the settings:

    change_over_aulro.jpg

    map.jpg

    modify_carb.jpg

    I saw, that I have lower pressure on reducer, only 0.95 bar instead of 1.1 ( or 1.4 as suggested), and the timing difference between petrol and lpg is a bit higher. the map is a result of autocalibration.
    Should I adjust the pressure on reducer? could be the big timing difference because of this?
    Roverlord, would be possible to post your current settings?

    thanks

    (2) (as you can see, the o2 sensors are not in use, I am using one reducer and also one filter with two output hose )
    (1) If your LPG is switching to petrol under load I suggest you watch the pressure on screen as you (or your driver) accelerate. I see the regulator's (=reducer's) actual gas pressure is well below the program setting, at 0.78 bar instead of the required 0.95 bar. Adjusting the regulator to match or exceed the required pressure may solve your problem. Then you may need to autoclaibrate again or adjust the map table.

    (2) Your O2 sensors are still connected to the vehicle ECU? The screen just shows that they are not connected to the LPG ECU. In any case the O2 output is only for diagnosis, not for self tuning. The vehicle ECU is still in charge of changing injector times to match the lambda point at low load. If you wish to see the O2 sensor values on screen just connect the purple wires of the LPG ECU. In any case, reading the change in petrol injector time as you change from petrol to gas and back again will tell you how much your calibration is wrong by. At a steady load the petrol time should change by less than 5% as you change fuels.

  6. #6
    olbod Guest
    Excuse me.
    What diagnostic tool are you Blokes using plugged into the gas thingy ?

    Our Bitch is also on gas which stopped working.
    Been told that therte is no one in Mackay with diagnostic tool to check it.

    I know nothing about what we have and this is the first question on this subject with perhaps the idea to get it sorted.
    With fuel tax going up I might be converted.

    Ta.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by olbod View Post
    Excuse me.
    What diagnostic tool are you Blokes using plugged into the gas thingy ?

    Our Bitch is also on gas which stopped working.
    Been told that therte is no one in Mackay with diagnostic tool to check it.

    I know nothing about what we have and this is the first question on this subject with perhaps the idea to get it sorted.
    With fuel tax going up I might be converted.

    Ta.
    We are using software that comes with the lpg system and have a plug from the LPG ECU to a USB on Laptop. It is for injected gas systems only.


  8. #8
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by pooh961 View Post
    Hi,

    I have a very similar settings on my 2001 RR Thor engine currently, but still fighting: when hardly accelerating, the ECU switch back to petrol ( another issue is, that there is too big difference between petrol and LPG fuel consumption, but I would like to fine tune it later, because I am afraid to run on lean mix ... )

    here are the pics about the settings:

    change_over_aulro.jpg

    map.jpg

    modify_carb.jpg

    I saw, that I have lower pressure on reducer, only 0.95 bar instead of 1.1 ( or 1.4 as suggested), and the timing difference between petrol and lpg is a bit higher. the map is a result of autocalibration.
    Should I adjust the pressure on reducer? could be the big timing difference because of this?
    Roverlord, would be possible to post your current settings?

    thanks

    (as you can see, the o2 sensors are not in use, I am using one reducer and also one filter with two output hose )
    Hi pooh961, I'm still fiddling with mine. I still a having trouble with the fuel map. At idle it's a bit rough, under load it feels like it's starving, at 2200rpm when under load and on a hill it feels like it's not getting enough fuel. Changing the fuel map is what I find difficult as I don't know what I'm doing as there are too many boxes with settings in them.


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by olbod View Post
    Excuse me.
    What diagnostic tool are you Blokes using plugged into the gas thingy ?

    Our Bitch is also on gas which stopped working.
    Been told that therte is no one in Mackay with diagnostic tool to check it.

    I know nothing about what we have and this is the first question on this subject with perhaps the idea to get it sorted.
    With fuel tax going up I might be converted.

    Ta.
    A gas "thingy", eh? Well that'll help us narrow it down!

    Seriously, you need to work out a little bit more detail about what your system actually is before anyone can help. Even some pictures of the most glaringly obvious gas parts (thingies, oh yeah)...

  10. #10
    olbod Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    A gas "thingy", eh? Well that'll help us narrow it down!

    Seriously, you need to work out a little bit more detail about what your system actually is before anyone can help. Even some pictures of the most glaringly obvious gas parts (thingies, oh yeah)...

    Heh heh, as I said I know nothing about what is installed in our P38.
    Even when it was working I never used it.

    I did find that Sprint Gas manual in the owners handbook folder but it tells me nothing except how to fill the tank safely.

    I only asked about diagnostic tools really. I certainly would not expect you to sort it out from what I wrote.
    I had the thought that if it could be made to work again I might learn about it and be able to maintain the system myself.

    I have sent an email to Sprint Gas asking them the location of the nearest service centre to Mackay. I thought that might be a start.

    I have been telling The Bro for a couple of years to thro this gas crap in the skip but he likes it even tho it does not work. ?.

    But with all this talk about budget woes and fuel tax increases I had the mad idea that this gas thingy might be worth an effort.

    Oh well.

    Thanks.

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