Thread: 202 extractors.

Originally Posted by rick130

I disagree Brian, a good set of interfernce pipes on a Holden work well IMO, although I do agree the old Holden cast headers are a good item, although again I wouldn't run a twin system right to the back but go into a single pipe for maximum torque (and I can't abide the note of a dual system on a straight six )

Any 'modern' XU-1 race car I've seen or worked on uses a single pipe system

Then you are disagreeing with no less than Phil. Irving. Remember, this is not a race car, but a street engine whose owner is seeking a bit more oomph. In the case of a maximum output engine as in a race car then extractors that are matched to the rest of the intake-exhaust tract are necessary.

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

Then you are disagreeing with no less than Phil. Irving. Remember, this is not a race car, but a street engine whose owner is seeking a bit more oomph. In the case of a maximum output engine as in a race car then extractors that are matched to the rest of the intake-exhaust tract are necessary.

Tuned length, not interference

Interference style pipes as originally developed by HM, then others will help overall performance without any downsides on a stock engine.

The last of the Black engines that was fuel injected (VK ?) ran a set of two-three-one stainless steel pipes rather than the traditional three-two-one style.
If they weren't worth anything GM-H wouldn't have gone to the expense of fitting them

Oh, and as for disagreeing with 'Deities', I've disagreed with 'em before, no one that's human is infallible

New here and stumbled across this post. Just on the original question, a couple of tips I have picked up over the years. Another method for finding an exhaust leak or even a rattle/knock is a piece of tube in your ear and then direct the opening to various suspect points - it narrows down the orchestra of noises to just one point. Also you will find compression testers pretty cheap to buy ($30?) and it will be one tool you will find yourself not using much but over time will pay for itself many times over in time saved chasing probs - and will last forever. Doesn't need to be the best quality to solve a lot of problems since you are mainly comparing if compression is even. Whenever i buy a new car (including my landy that had a misfire) only takes a few minutes to test. And a squirt of oil in the bore to temporarily seal up the rings can narrow down a valves vs rings problem. My misfire was simply a dodgy spark plug and the PO had tried all sorts of stuff to solve.

Should probably put this in a separate post but in case someone sees and can help, is their an easy way eg engine number to tell what capacity a red motor is. I have a S3 I will wreck and don't see myself using the red motor so will ebay it or something - have done a compression check but don't know what it is!