Could also be leaking turbo seals leaking oil into the intake causing it to run on or excessive crankcase pressure doing the same.
Even if its cheap why buy it ? it has less resale value than a similar age disco.
G'day all, this is a 1995 Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8 TD engine.
I'm about to buy the above car, for a steal, because it is having running issues. Because I don't give myself enough dramas with my current Disco....
Anyhow, I'm new to diesels. I understand the basic principles of the Diesel engine, but this car has a fuelling issue which is why the car is being sold.
Bloke used it as his daily, no dramas. Went out 4wding all day, drove home, no problems. Car started fine the next day and on his way to work he managed a few kms down the road before it started pushing out a fair decent amount of black smoke. So the bloke called it quits and headed home. On the way back the car started to lose power and increased levels of smoke. By the time he got home and went to key the car off, it wouldn't die. He stalled it to kill it. Hasn't started it since. He has told me that a diesel fitter friend of his has had a look and believes that a valve in the injector pump is sticking open causing over fuelling and the non-shut off event. Seems believable to me.
If it is a new pump that's a pretty hefty chunk of cash, so I'm going into it thinking if I put all new seals in the pump it should fix it.
Am I going in too deep here? I'm competent with tools, no fear of breaking anything and will give most jobs a go (unless expert tools are needed). Any tips, thoughts are appreciated.
Edit: new/refurbished injectors were put in 'recently'. Not sure on exact kms.
Could also be leaking turbo seals leaking oil into the intake causing it to run on or excessive crankcase pressure doing the same.
Even if its cheap why buy it ? it has less resale value than a similar age disco.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
For a couple of hundred dollars, I figure 'why not'. If I can fix it, I'll be able to sell it at a profit. If not, I will likely be able to recover most of my money - bull bar, snorkel, winch, new tyres. Not a complete waste. I like tinkering so gives me something to do.
Sounds like a split or delamination in one of the turbo hoses, pull everything off around the engine and have a good look.
Like beeutey says first things first pull pipework off and check it all out. Personally if it needs a turbo and you can get it running for under 1k then do it and sell it on. If it needs an injector pump (not likely with those symptoms i think?) Then don't bother. Wreck it and flog off all the good bits. The 4m40 engine was no exciting thing and the trans etc wasn't much better. An uninspiring vehicle. The later crd 3.2 was a fair bit more of a vehicle.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
You didn't need a washing machine with those. Just put the clothes on the roof and let it idle for a while.
Regards Philip A
So picked the car up this arvo. Turns out it had a diesel run away, not a dieselling issue like I first thought. I always assumed the two terms were not interchangeable. Diesel run away being when it slowly builds up revs and even with the key off continues to rev till generally something catastrophic happens. Dieselling being the car just idles slowly under its own steam.
Car won't start as the battery is cactus, even with a jump, but the car is in great condition otherwise. I'll start getting into it this evening once it cools down a touch. In the mean time I'm painfully trying to pull my radius arms off to replace some bushes. How does 20 years of rust and torque on a nut sound!
Edit: well after getting stuck into it this evening I can say Im surprised at some peoples diagnosis over the Internet is better than other peoples in real life. Was told it was a fuel pump, by the blokes diesel mechanic friend. Turns out it is the turbo. Started off poorly with the first pipe I pulled being coated in oil, so much so it was leaking, and this was post intercooler! Then it got worse and worse. Intercooler dripping with oil. Post compressor hose dripping... But worst of all, turbo intake pipe was filled, and upon my removal of it, a good handful of oil hit the road. Wowzas. The compressor wheel is knackered.
Some pics for those who are interested. I guess at least it being a turbo it is easier to fix than a fuel pump - old out, new in.
Post intercooler to intake:
Intercooler inlet:
Turbo compressor wheel:
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Last edited by SeanP; 4th January 2016 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Pics and info
Nice.... i would be careful starting it again until you remove the glow plugs and crank it by hand first. There is a possibility of hydraulic lock and bent conrods (if that hasn't already happened during the runaway) if the intake manifold still has oil in it it will dump some into the cylinder when an intake valve opens...
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I'd be doing a compression test before thinking about a new turbo...
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
The intake track, at the end of the piping into the plenum while it is oily, I wouldn't expect it to have enough oil to lock a cylinder as it is quite wet, but not so wet it could lock a cylinder. I agree with the compression test though. Something else to do! Thanks for the help.
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