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Thread: Help to Rewire an Old Thomas Winch

  1. #1
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    Help to Rewire an Old Thomas Winch

    I’m not an auto sparky, I’m self taught, and I’ve reached the end of my current tech knowledge.

    I’d like to achieve 2 things - 1) to test the solenoids as they’re about 30 years old. 2) once the solenoids are confirmed to be working, rewire it all with a control switch on the dash instead of a hand control.

    The winch motor definitely works - I can get it to go both directions by connecting the battery up directly.

    I’ve tried following the directions for testing the solenoids, but unless either I’ve mucked something up or they’re US.

    Here are the diagrams that I have:









    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  2. #2
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    I got some new solenoids for my old winch off Ebay pretty cheap but good, after 30 years maybe worth considering, I used an extension cord, cut off the plugs thru firewall to heavy rated switch.i just connected onto the hand piece plug, one wire is power, one is forward, one reverse.

  3. #3
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    In diagram 2 is the black,blue and white are they the 3 blue coated heavy gauge wires in 5?

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    Help to Rewire an Old Thomas Winch

    Quote Originally Posted by RobMichelle View Post
    In diagram 2 is the black,blue and white are they the 3 blue coated heavy gauge wires in 5?
    Yes. If u refer to diagram 1, I’m 99.9% sure that the red battery wire attaches to where the small gauge yellow wire is in the photo.

    I think I’ve orientated the photo the same as diagram 1
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  5. #5
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    I assume you followed the oft repeated directions and ran an earth wire from the solenoid mounting plate to the battery negative terminal, along with the winch motor earth.

  6. #6
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    I might wire it all up again tomorrow and post another pic of what I’ve done.

    That way you all can either point out my obvious mistake or be as stumped as me!
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  7. #7
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    what you have there is the mother of all double pole double throw relays.....

    testing its easy. disconnect and insulate the leads going to the winch, connect the thick black wire from the left bus bar to the right bus bar


    hook up a pair of jumper cables to the frame of the solenoid assembly (negative) and the bus bar

    connect the yellow lead to either the green or black wire and 2 solenoids should click in. to test it simply grab your meter and measure between the frame and the joiners, if you have voltage you have some kind of connection but it could be sus, so grab a light (a headlight with the high and low bridged in parallel will do nicely) and touch it from the joiner to battery negative (or the frame whatevers easy)

    if it lights up then the solenoid that is connected to the wire you have the yellow lead joined to is ok. with that done swap the yellow wire to the other of the green or black small wire and go again.

    tested.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  8. #8
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    Help to Rewire an Old Thomas Winch

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    connect the thick black wire from the left bus bar to the right bus bar hook up a pair of jumper cables to the frame of the solenoid assembly (negative) and the bus bar connect the yellow lead to either the green or black wire and 2 solenoids should click in. to test it simply grab your meter and measure between the frame and the joiners
    I did this today like advised:



    I can confirm that when you touch the yellow wire to either the black or green you can feel all 4 relays clicking. Although ‘thumping’ is probably a better term as they are loud.

    So all 4 relays work - yay!

    Next I connected it to the winch like so:



    And I connected up the yellow to the black 1st and the green 2nd. The winch drum goes both ways!

    Obviously I’ll need a ‘winch in & out switch’ which the yellow will be the common and the black and green will go on opposite poles. That sounds easy enough. The switch will be dash mounted not remote.

    The solenoid bank will go under my special dual battery holder which is in the same location of the main TD5 starting battery. Another 3 questions

    1) 3b&s or 0 gauge wire from solenoids to winch

    2) I’m adding an isolator relay/solenoid to cut main power. What size should I buy?

    3 Also what size fuse between battery & solenoids? 10 amp between battery and main power relay should suffice?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    I did this today like advised:



    I can confirm that when you touch the yellow wire to either the black or green you can feel all 4 relays clicking. Although ‘thumping’ is probably a better term as they are loud.

    So all 4 relays work - yay!

    Next I connected it to the winch like so:



    And I connected up the yellow to the black 1st and the green 2nd. The winch drum goes both ways!

    Obviously I’ll need a ‘winch in & out switch’ which the yellow will be the common and the black and green will go on opposite poles. That sounds easy enough. The switch will be dash mounted not remote.

    The solenoid bank will go under my special dual battery holder which is in the same location of the main TD5 starting battery. Another 3 questions

    1) 3b&s or 0 gauge wire from solenoids to winch

    2) I’m adding an isolator relay/solenoid to cut main power. What size should I buy?

    3 Also what size fuse between battery & solenoids? 10 amp between battery and main power relay should suffice?

    use 2 small relays to drive the main relays, you want single throw single pole horn relays those big relays in pairs draw around 6 amps. then you can use almost any switch you like.

    1) the fattest wire you can get, also make up an earth lead for the winch mount back to the battery or alternator. (battery is better)

    2) something rated for 400A constant with a surge of about 700A and a peak over 1000A.

    3. 10 Amps will be fine, but watch your switching (as per above comment about using relays)


    Glad it worked out.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    use 2 small relays to drive the main relays, you want single throw single pole horn relays those big relays in pairs draw around 6 amps. then you can use almost any switch you like.

    1) the fattest wire you can get, also make up an earth lead for the winch mount back to the battery or alternator. (battery is better)

    2) something rated for 400A constant with a surge of about 700A and a peak over 1000A.

    3. 10 Amps will be fine, but watch your switching (as per above comment about using relays)


    Glad it worked out.
    Thanks for your help. So just to clarify:

    instead of running the black, green & yellow back to the dash switch, run them to 2 relays & fuse the yellow with 7.5amp. Control the relays with a 2 way switch.

    Fat battery cable with suggested amperage ratings.

    10 amp fuse on main power solenoid. What size solenoid for the battery to solenoid bank line?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

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