Reply With QuoteYes, no one has mentioned the degree of taper. It's likely not meant to be tapered at all, and is just cheaper manufacture.Originally Posted by Graeme
Fossicker
I've always used the "standard" tow ball spanner ($12 at any auto shop) and the ball's never come loose.
50 year's worth of towing caravans and trailers around the Eastern states. The split lock washer is essential.
Foot against the tow bar, and throw your weight into the spanner. I've never worried about torquing.
Fossicker
SubscriberYes, no one has mentioned the degree of taper. It's likely not meant to be tapered at all, and is just cheaper manufacture.
Master
SupporterSome couplings have friction pads located in the ball receiver to aid stability/anti sway . I think these are to remain dry to be effective, not very common though.Don't forget the smear of grease on the ball each time it is used. Dry balls can apparently loosen up with movement friction. No kid.
Remember, grease your balls. Some may even find it a pleasant experience.
OldBushie
SupporterI Never grease up the towball because it will pick up grit/sand and will prematurely wear down the ball, The balls are usually brass anyway and don't need lubrication.Don't forget the smear of grease on the ball each time it is used. Dry balls can apparently loosen up with movement friction. No kid.
Remember, grease your balls. Some may even find it a pleasant experience.
If the ball comes undone due to "Friction" then it wasn't tightened up enough in the first place
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
Master
SupporterBrass balls are only on monkeys
Master
SubscriberAll sounds a bit Nuts! ;0)
As I recall from when I was a youngling apprentice being beaten around the head over torque wrenches, I was also taught that in the main spanners are designed (length) so as to be able to only apply the maximum safe torque to the nut or bolt size of the spanner. So when in doubt for something like this, find the correct size open ender or ringy and swing off it.
Cheers
RF
Cynical Moi?
Seems not all Tow balls are brass & plenty are steel. I can see where your application would require a brass one & no grease.
There is plenty on Google that advise a light greasing of the ball.
I guess it is a matter of choice. You do what suits you best & I will do likewise.
Job done.
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberI stopped using tow balls years ago - use a DO35 hitch or pintle on my stuff - when I borrow a trailer from work I put up with them, but that's not often.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Cynical Moi?
Probably on Pawn Shops as well, especially if they are outside.
RoverLord
Interesting! I have been using a wide variety of towballs for almost sixty years. I have never seen a brass one. Cast iron (used to be very common in Imperial sizes), yes, turned steel, yes, chromed, yes, painted yes, rusty, yes, greasy, yes. But I have never seen a brass one.I Never grease up the towball because it will pick up grit/sand and will prematurely wear down the ball, The balls are usually brass anyway and don't need lubrication.
If the ball comes undone due to "Friction" then it wasn't tightened up enough in the first place
And I always grease mine, not to prevent it unscrewing - as noted above, it should be tight enough that it is not going to come undone even if dry - but to minimise wear. And it should be cleaned off and regreased regularly because of the grit issue.
Note that the coupling will wear as well as the ball, and some couplings have an adjustable pad to take this up. I should also note that while I have never seen a brass ball, bronze couplings used to be fairly common, although I don't recall ever seeing one in metric sizes.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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