Thread: 200TDi Build

i've fitted the 200tdi in my 88" bitsa with the standard turbo/manifold set up, modified the radiator panel to carry the discovery radiator and intercooler, fitted disco 3.54 diffs and a fairey overdrive along with 7.50x16 Super All Grips (potential for 90mph with this gearing)....

i'm still running the standard 10" single line non servo'd brakes at present but i do have a dual line servo set up sat on the shelf ready for when i hunt down a rear 109" axle to rob the backplates and drums off ....

i'll be leaving the standard rear drums and slave cylinders on my rear axle as i feel there's enough braking power there due to the rear being so light and just fitting the 109" parts to my front axle (11" single leading shoes) which with the servo assistance i feel should give more than enough braking power ....

the reason(s) i'm going this way is that my 88" won't have increased in weight by much if any so shouldn't really need a brake upgrade if driven as a landy was originally designed to be driven (i've been driving on the 10" fitment for about 15months now)...

the second reason for not upgrading any higher is that the final limitation to your stopping power is the traction your tyres will have on the surface (no matter how good your brakes are, if the tyres don't grip you won't stop any faster) ....

the only downside (?) with having a more powerful engine is you can maintain a higher travelling speed which will increase your braking distance which means you need to maintain a greater braking distance between yourself and anything in front (always look and think ahead)....

i've no idea about Ashcroft high ratio transfer gears as i've not used them, the only thing i've heard is that they are the better option rather than fitting 3.54 diffs due to keeping your low ratio gearing nice and low for offroad exercises....

my Bitsa is my first landrover and i've only owned it about 20 months so i'm no expert, this is just my thoughts and present day experiences (my disclaimer because i'm no expert )

my next build i'm starting is my '65 109" van bodied 2a, going to be getting a 200tdi with 300tdi manifolds/turbo, 4.3:1 diffs (lower ratio for towing) and overdrive, just finished repairing the replacement bulkhead so it'll be a while before i'm driving that one

Originally Posted by NiteMare

i've fitted the 200tdi in my 88" bitsa with the standard turbo/manifold set up, modified the radiator panel to carry the discovery radiator and intercooler, fitted disco 3.54 diffs and a fairey overdrive along with 7.50x16 Super All Grips (potential for 90mph with this gearing)....

i'm still running the standard 10" single line non servo'd brakes at present but i do have a dual line servo set up sat on the shelf ready for when i hunt down a rear 109" axle to rob the backplates and drums off ....

i'll be leaving the standard rear drums and slave cylinders on my rear axle as i feel there's enough braking power there due to the rear being so light and just fitting the 109" parts to my front axle (11" single leading shoes) which with the servo assistance i feel should give more than enough braking power ....


the reason(s) i'm going this way is that my 88" won't have increased in weight by much if any so shouldn't really need a brake upgrade if driven as a landy was originally designed to be driven (i've been driving on the 10" fitment for about 15months now)...

the second reason for not upgrading any higher is that the final limitation to your stopping power is the traction your tyres will have on the surface (no matter how good your brakes are, if the tyres don't grip you won't stop any faster) ....

the only downside (?) with having a more powerful engine is you can maintain a higher travelling speed which will increase your braking distance which means you need to maintain a greater braking distance between yourself and anything in front (always look and think ahead)....

Read your post good points made regarding the braking, I have the option of quiet a few different setups, so will see what people thoughts are I think boosted for sure but as for the configuration not so sure.

So how has the conversion gone so far as in the motor sitting in the mounts etc and how is the room going to be around the turbo???

I may be interested in what ever is left after you decide wich gearing road you will take too.

Originally Posted by NiteMare

...my next build i'm starting is my '65 109" van bodied 2a, going to be getting a 200tdi with 300tdi manifolds/turbo, ...

Tell me more about the 300tdi manifold NiteMare.

I have heard that it fits the 200tdi head - does it also solve the clearance with the chassis problem?

I have a 200 tdi engine for my S3, so it would be nice to know all of the options,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by Muckinhell

So how has the conversion gone so far as in the motor sitting in the mounts etc and how is the room going to be around the turbo???

I may be interested in what ever is left after you decide wich gearing road you will take too.

As far as the motor sitting in the chassis it is fine there are two locating points for the engine mount. Use the front ones,

just remember to bolt the brackets and mounts on the injector side to the block first or you will not get the mount on easily.

Or at least I had great issues otherwise the engine sits like it is suppose to be there.

Had to remove a locating plug and 1 stud also on the fly wheel housing, then drill and tap treads for four new studs. I did have to put 4 High Tensile bolts on the bottom of the flywheel housing and these were internal hex head ones which were counter sunk into the Flywheel housing. Best to fit up the gearbox and motor then drill the tapped holes as you are more likely to get better holes to tap. All up about 2-3 hours labour including and she was ready to bolt up.

As for the turbo at first attempt I was cussing the turbo setup as the exhaust was going to have to do a 180 degree turn the exit down the side of the chassis. The outlet was facing toward the quarter panel and just to top it off the air inlet was two thirds covered by the PS foot well. After a cuppa and a bit of contemplation the light came on, pivot it around and see what can be achieved. Luckily these turbo are a three bolt exhaust flange with the holes spaced equally apart, so it was that I pivoted it one third a turn and then spun the air intake around till it looked right.


So this is the rough in of the turbo fitment exhuast points down wards, the air outlet points to front and the air inlet up and towards the firewall.

this is both of the 300 manifolds bolted to my 200Tdi engine, make sure you get the oil lines and adaptors as you need to mix and match the connections..
you also need the longer studs that the 300 uses as the mounting faces are thicker...
get the 300 dipstick and tube in case it will fit your engine block, i had to reuse the 200 dipstick and tube and carefully rebend the tube to fit round the turbo...
i've also got the 300 intercooler which has the one port in a different place and apparently eases fitment...
this mix of parts has been done quite a few times in this country to get the engine into the 109 chassis without cutting a scoop into it, my engine is still sat on the floor as i've only just finished repairing my spare bulkhead which now needs media blasting and painting before i pull Big Ears apart

anyway here's the poor quality picture


another thing to beware of in the 88" chassis is the front crank pulley can strike the axle tube on heavy landings and chip chunks out of it if you have the cast iron pulley, which i expect would eventually damage the crank


i put 3.5 mm thick spacers/washers above and below the engine mounting rubbers after i found that damage giving a 7mm lift to the engine, i also put my pulley in the lathe and completely removed the rear Vee, i also turned a couple of MM off the front belt lip, since these modifications i've had no evidence of striking



you can also fit the standard Series alternator mount straight to the 200 engine block which with a 32mm thick spacer between the block and mount will allow you to fit a 200tdi alternator, it still doesn't line up with the engine pulley at that so i fitted a double pulley on the alternator and "bob's your mothers brother", this gave me the required space for induction and cooling pipes at the top of the engine in my 88", i will be attempting to fit the alt' on the stock aluminium casting in my 109 in the hope that i won't be dunking it quite so often when "greenlaning" (unsurfaced roads) or in "pay and play" pits, i killed 3 alt's in about 12 months thru dirt and water getting in them

anyway ask away and i'll help if i can

Originally Posted by NiteMare

i put 3.5 mm thick spacers/washers above and below the engine mounting rubbers after i found that damage giving a 7mm lift to the engine, i also put my pulley in the lathe and completely removed the rear Vee, i also turned a couple of MM off the front belt lip
ask away and i'll help if i can

UMM that one I had not considered do you think extended shackles would do the the job if using parabolics they generally add about 50mm.